It's a work day, and for a little time things are coming together. At least I feel as though I'm able to take a few minutes to think, to write, and to share a bit of the "ordinary" which is still so extraordinary to me.
Since the Velvet Revolution (1989 -- see Wikipedia if you're interested) there's been a constant growth in the number of people/schools teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL). St. James Education Centre was founded (in 1999 by a Czech from Canada) specifically to teach English to and work with the business community. The Centre doesn't offer "public" or personal classes. It has contracts with major businesses to provide language training (several others as well as English) to their employees. I still have to do a frequent reality check. It is not yet commonplace to me -- and I hope it never becomes so -- that I've been so blessed to be in this city I love doing work which seems to bring together so many parts of my life. To make it even better, I have a growing circle of colleagues I really enjoy who are becoming friends. Talk about coming together - - -
And then there's falling apart! It feels as though there is some part of every day where I am convinced I'm absolutely falling apart. Here's an RD version of a work day. This is NOT complaining! It is a look at a typical day.
Leave my pension (still am working -- and it is like having a second job -- at finding long-term accommodation) between 6:30 and 7 in the morning. That is before the breakfast buffet opens! Short walk (hooray!) to my nearby tram. I do love riding the trams and am still fascinated with the wonderful old buildings at every turn. Incredible statues looking down on you. Yes, really bending as if to watch over you. Michael called my attention to that on my first trip, and I've been watching it ever since. Beautiful ornamentation, sometimes subtle, sometimes not, in the most unexpected places. Delicate colors standing side by side with centuries old gray. This first ride is always followed by another, usually tram, sometimes metro (that's a subway with more steps and a longer walk!), and almost always a long walk to the client's office. Yep, I can be tired before I even begin to work!
My classes last from 60 to 120 minutes, some with individual students, none with more than four. Three days of the week the schedule is back-to-back, sometimes with barely enough time to make it! Lots of walking, climbing, hurrying. Also lots of shifting mental gears. Some students are advanced, some not so, and a few at Pre-intermediate. That means they know quite a bit of English, but are learning a business approach for it. Almost always they are using English with another non-native speaker. That certainly adds another level of difficulty!
A couple days include a period of a couple hours where I can go to the office -- it's VERY near my pension, and I'll miss that when I find my new place. Three days are not over till after six, and one is eight. And that is my longest commute -- nearly an hour.
At the end of every month we have to report on our classes for the month: attendance, what the goals were and how they were met, etc. And here I am at the end of my first month! I have 16 different classes during a week. I can hardly believe how very fortunate I am yet again. My schedule was filled very quickly after I arrived. And we also have the usual required faculty meetings and training sessions.
All of which leads me to the falling apart place. I have moments -- very brief, but very real -- when I have to pay serious attention to which tram will take me where I want to go. And there is comfort (small comfort when the schedule's tight) in knowing that if I ride past my stop I can always get off at the next one. And a couple times I've said "when we discussed. . ." only to have a blank look on a student's face. Oh yes, that was a different class. And there are certainly evenings when I believe I cannot move another inch even if there were a fire!
Yes, it's coming together. I can shop, feel comfortable moving through the city, do laundry, understand and do my work, all those things that move us through each day. And it seems to me I still have way too many times when I feel very close to falling apart.
Maybe I'm not one of those figures held together with elastic. Remember them? You could pull the head/arms/legs into many different weird positions, then pop them back into place. Eventually all the pulling left the elastic with no more snap! Perhaps each time I keep it all together the connections get stronger. For now - - - it's coming together!
Friday, February 29, 2008
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Making Choices
Just amazing what a simple yes or no, one question raised or left unspoken, taking the lead or following can do to change a plan. My plan for Saturday was to take it easy, work on some preparations for classes, and generally have a low-key day. My plan for Sunday was to enjoy a couple hours at the Brevnov Monastery with a few colleagues I know and some of their circle of friends.
Let's talk about Saturday's choices first. One quick "yes" turned it all around. No taking it easy, no prep for me! Mid-afternoon found me waiting at a metro escalator, supposedly to join two others to see a documentary movie about Vaclav Havel. That changed when I agreed with Barb, the first to arrive, that it would be much better to view the movie at the beautiful old theatre in a shopping center built by Havel's grandfather. The family connection and a "real" setting made sense to me. Next came agreement to go back the way she'd come to meet two of her Aussie friends she'd seen thru' a big window in a cafe. Off we trooped, scooted chairs up to a tiny table, and had a marvelous time broadening the circle of friends, learning about teaching in other countries and other great life experiences. After some time and many words we agreed to part ways and get on with the remainder of plans for the evening. That lasted just as long as it took us to walk around opposite sides of the block and meet up again. Natural choice to have dinner together at the hospada (pub with good, usually inexpensive food) that was their plan. Since some supper somewhere along the way had been in the original plan for us also, we're on track here. Great food and more good conversation.
The next good choice was to continue the evening together as we got on with our original plan to visit the Globe bookstore. Our conversation turned to old movies as we walked over the cobblestones thru' narrow streets in a old part of town, an intriguing mixture of fascinating buildings all around us
The Globe is an incredible place. The front section is the bookstore -- "Please purchase books before sitting at the table" -- where all titles are selected individually by the owner. What an incredible selection! As we entered, Anne (another colleague) asked the "kid" behind the counter if he could answer a movie question which was stumping us. He couldn't, but a voice from the second level joined the conversation, then the person joined us. It was the owner, in for the weekend from Moscow.
Michael is a bright, young Chicagoan, obviously with a gift for making money, who currently lives in Moscow and manages two hedge funds. One of his favorite places when he lived in Prague 5-6 years ago was the Globe. When it fell on very hard times and was being closed a little over a year ago, he bought it and is still restoring it. He tries to visit every month, and our choices put us there at just the right moment. First we stayed in the front, talking books, checking out titles, all the good reasons one goes to bookstores. But then there's the back section. Towering high ceilings, walls painted a gorgeous deep red to showcase fantastic modern original art, a singer who sounded a lot like Paul Simon, an eclectic mix of styles and ages. What more could you want?
There is more. You see, the Aussie are going home via Moscow (a place where I briefly considered teaching). And Michael loved talking about the city. What it's like, where to go, what to see, how much it is misrepresented. Interesting to hear his thoughts on the government, possibilities for the future. After a while he got on with business and we continued talking about anything and everything. What a night! Back to the cobblestones, a long walk to the tram, and a quiet ride home, reliving some wonderful choices.
And that is only Saturday! A few days earlier I'd made another choice -- join colleagues from St. J. and elsewhere for a visit to the Brevnov Monastery.
Sunday followed the plan. Only I had no idea how it would expand. The day could not have been more beautiful, bright sunshine, blue sky, just a hint of spring with little buds thinking about popping out. Our guide was an intern studying for her guide certification, whatever that takes, who is a student of one on the colleagues. (This time the circle of friends expanded to 15.) The Brevnov is a Benedictine monastery, begun in 993, just up the hill from the Castle! And yes, we saw the archeological excavation under the present Basilica of the original church. Can you imagine the struggle, turmoil, pain and peace that ground has seen. Our guide took us walking and climbing -- what else! -- through the grounds, orchards, old mill, on and on with wonderful commentary. Then we entered the monastery, where a young monk became our guide. Oh my, the stories, frescoes, worn steps and corridors, history both recent and long ago, pictures of the renovations after the Communist era, photos of the two monks who returned from prison to die in "their home". Even heard from a distance an organist rehearsing on the newly restored instrument for a recording tonight. What an incredible place with an insider's view.
As you may know, Benedictine monks have to raise their own financial support. This group does so thru' its hotel and restaurant. And our reservations were for 2:30. The restaurant is rustic, charming, and serves marvelous food. I'm hoping to return next Sunday for lunch, just before the free organ concert!
Brevnov is "up the hill" from the Castle. The ride back led to a stop in the "New Town" and a coffee shop very near the Museum of Music. We (the group was now down to eight) even took time to visit another well-known Baroque church on the way. (They certainly are fancy!) When I finally returned, this had become an eight hour day! And what a great one it is.
I can hardly wait to see where the next choice will lead me.
Let's talk about Saturday's choices first. One quick "yes" turned it all around. No taking it easy, no prep for me! Mid-afternoon found me waiting at a metro escalator, supposedly to join two others to see a documentary movie about Vaclav Havel. That changed when I agreed with Barb, the first to arrive, that it would be much better to view the movie at the beautiful old theatre in a shopping center built by Havel's grandfather. The family connection and a "real" setting made sense to me. Next came agreement to go back the way she'd come to meet two of her Aussie friends she'd seen thru' a big window in a cafe. Off we trooped, scooted chairs up to a tiny table, and had a marvelous time broadening the circle of friends, learning about teaching in other countries and other great life experiences. After some time and many words we agreed to part ways and get on with the remainder of plans for the evening. That lasted just as long as it took us to walk around opposite sides of the block and meet up again. Natural choice to have dinner together at the hospada (pub with good, usually inexpensive food) that was their plan. Since some supper somewhere along the way had been in the original plan for us also, we're on track here. Great food and more good conversation.
The next good choice was to continue the evening together as we got on with our original plan to visit the Globe bookstore. Our conversation turned to old movies as we walked over the cobblestones thru' narrow streets in a old part of town, an intriguing mixture of fascinating buildings all around us
The Globe is an incredible place. The front section is the bookstore -- "Please purchase books before sitting at the table" -- where all titles are selected individually by the owner. What an incredible selection! As we entered, Anne (another colleague) asked the "kid" behind the counter if he could answer a movie question which was stumping us. He couldn't, but a voice from the second level joined the conversation, then the person joined us. It was the owner, in for the weekend from Moscow.
Michael is a bright, young Chicagoan, obviously with a gift for making money, who currently lives in Moscow and manages two hedge funds. One of his favorite places when he lived in Prague 5-6 years ago was the Globe. When it fell on very hard times and was being closed a little over a year ago, he bought it and is still restoring it. He tries to visit every month, and our choices put us there at just the right moment. First we stayed in the front, talking books, checking out titles, all the good reasons one goes to bookstores. But then there's the back section. Towering high ceilings, walls painted a gorgeous deep red to showcase fantastic modern original art, a singer who sounded a lot like Paul Simon, an eclectic mix of styles and ages. What more could you want?
There is more. You see, the Aussie are going home via Moscow (a place where I briefly considered teaching). And Michael loved talking about the city. What it's like, where to go, what to see, how much it is misrepresented. Interesting to hear his thoughts on the government, possibilities for the future. After a while he got on with business and we continued talking about anything and everything. What a night! Back to the cobblestones, a long walk to the tram, and a quiet ride home, reliving some wonderful choices.
And that is only Saturday! A few days earlier I'd made another choice -- join colleagues from St. J. and elsewhere for a visit to the Brevnov Monastery.
Sunday followed the plan. Only I had no idea how it would expand. The day could not have been more beautiful, bright sunshine, blue sky, just a hint of spring with little buds thinking about popping out. Our guide was an intern studying for her guide certification, whatever that takes, who is a student of one on the colleagues. (This time the circle of friends expanded to 15.) The Brevnov is a Benedictine monastery, begun in 993, just up the hill from the Castle! And yes, we saw the archeological excavation under the present Basilica of the original church. Can you imagine the struggle, turmoil, pain and peace that ground has seen. Our guide took us walking and climbing -- what else! -- through the grounds, orchards, old mill, on and on with wonderful commentary. Then we entered the monastery, where a young monk became our guide. Oh my, the stories, frescoes, worn steps and corridors, history both recent and long ago, pictures of the renovations after the Communist era, photos of the two monks who returned from prison to die in "their home". Even heard from a distance an organist rehearsing on the newly restored instrument for a recording tonight. What an incredible place with an insider's view.
As you may know, Benedictine monks have to raise their own financial support. This group does so thru' its hotel and restaurant. And our reservations were for 2:30. The restaurant is rustic, charming, and serves marvelous food. I'm hoping to return next Sunday for lunch, just before the free organ concert!
Brevnov is "up the hill" from the Castle. The ride back led to a stop in the "New Town" and a coffee shop very near the Museum of Music. We (the group was now down to eight) even took time to visit another well-known Baroque church on the way. (They certainly are fancy!) When I finally returned, this had become an eight hour day! And what a great one it is.
I can hardly wait to see where the next choice will lead me.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Step by Step
. . .mile by mile. What a mixed bag of thoughts and experiences during the week, almost all accompanied by the sound of my own or someone else's footsteps.
I had a good idea when I read about and was interviewed by St. James what my work week would be. Since the company's mission/goal is to provide English language instruction to/in businesses, there are no "personal" language classes. (You know -- we're offering this class at ___ on ___. Sign up if you'd like to come.) The instruction is done at the client company's offices on a schedule which fits their work demands. That is why full time teachers are required to be available at peak hours -- 7:30-9 in the morning and 4-6 in the evening. The other requirement for full time status is to teach at least 17-20 hours a week. Because people can and do cancel, there obviously has to be some flexibility on the number! Logic says that to maintain the minimum hours, at least some mid-day work is necessary. Fortunately, I've been given several of those assignments. So, although I didn't talk about it much, I was not operating under any illusion this would be easy and comfortable. And that's before any consideration of preparation time for so many different classes each week!
I'm sure you are getting the picture here. 7:30-9 a.m. in one part of the city, then comes the routine: walk/walk, hop on, sit briefly, hop off, walk/walk (often accompanied by some degree of climbing) to arrive at another group, frequently in a very different section. Same thing, different place the next morning. And each afternoon a repeat, fortunately with different beautiful buildings, other interesting people to work and talk with and always a variety of faces to watch. To give them full credit, the Client Relations Managers (the folks who are in charge of our schedules) work very diligently to give us the time necessary to get from one place to another. There have been a couple times when they've been reduced to near begging and abject apology! And of course it is our mutual goal to keep the client happy! I have no idea how many steps I walk in a day. I do know I'm working on lengthening my stride. Logic tells me that if I cover more space in the same number of steps, I will arrive more quickly and do a favor for my body at the same time. I also know that the stairs down into the metro (subway) are in groups of 14-17, often with three sets. We're talking some serious steps in a day here!
Why am I talking about this? First, because it's such a major part of my new life/routine. Oh yes I'm tired when a day is complete. More importantly, however, it's on my mind because those steps are taking me to so many interesting thoughts.
Wednesday was a VERY long day -- began early with one of my favorite classes. Bright young people -- female corporate lawyer and male assistant marketing director at a personal products company (Unilever is a competitor and I've been aware of and used some of this company's products since my first trip here in 1990.) The day then moved through some rather normal events "down" into my least favorite group. You know this also: I dare you to teach me something! And then it was time (already 5:30) to make the trip to meet Iva for our first session. Little did I realize -- good thing -- the commute was over an hour each way. I also could not have realized what a gift it is to have time with her in the middle of each long week.
This assignment's SO different. First, it's in Iva's flat. She's invited me into her home and into her life. In many ways Iva seems to be representative of so many Czechs I see every day. Her life and mine are so similar -- school, college, memories of growing up and our favorite Christmas, college, marriage, a family with all its usual ups and downs, then work and a career change and constant sense of hangin' in there. Big difference? She's lived through some monumental changes of which I have only a third party knowledge. And she's obviously done it with grace and a lovely, somewhat shy smile. As we closed the door on the rest of the family -- eating the dinner she had prepared after work in, of course, a pressure cooker -- and settled down to begin our conversations (what a benefit to me that her primary goal is to talk!) I was so aware of two things. The first is how blessed I am to have been born when and where I was. The second is the universality of our experiences. Wife/mother/worker -- get it all done. That seems to know no boundaries, just a common thread of using what you can get to make it happen. She's changed jobs recently; better English -- and her conversation is already quite good though modest and hesitant -- will probably lead to a better job.
Time with Iva didn't reduce the number of steps or shorten the bus ride (and I do avoid a bus if at all possible -- they're so slow) but it changed the complexion of the day. And it makes it easier to face the next trip, and the one after that . . .
Iva's flat is way up on some hill miles out of "Old Prague". It's one of the "ubiquitous prefab Communist panelak housing estates ringing the city where much of the population still lives." (I told someone next day that I now knew where the "other million" of the Prague inhabitants live!) Quoting a guide book again: "local governments try to break up the grey monotony with two-tone paint jobs." Well, not at Iva's place! You're on your own if you want less monotony. And she certainly has done that within her crowded space. Lots of beautiful plants -- her Christmas cactus blooms three times a year: Christmas, Easter, and yet again. And even in the monotony and crush of buildings, after only a few of the many steps from the bus to her place I knew I felt safe and in some ways "at home."
I simply could not help reflecting on that hill and the others I could see from there. Who walked there 20 years ago, under the Russians? And 40? And 60, under the Germans? How about 100? At what point was it farms and villages, maybe only trees and forests. What an incredible country and people I'm blessed to share.
Oh yes -- another gift in the day? Walking out to see the same enormous moon that you were watching (I hope!!) Don't know if we could see the eclipse here. Do know that I missed it. And also know that if I had been with Alexander (oh, do I miss "my boys"!) we've would have had some serious conversations about it.
Bottom line for each of us - - day by day it's step by step. Tiring? Yes, sometimes. Interesting? Always, if we take the time and energy to let it become part of us.
I had a good idea when I read about and was interviewed by St. James what my work week would be. Since the company's mission/goal is to provide English language instruction to/in businesses, there are no "personal" language classes. (You know -- we're offering this class at ___ on ___. Sign up if you'd like to come.) The instruction is done at the client company's offices on a schedule which fits their work demands. That is why full time teachers are required to be available at peak hours -- 7:30-9 in the morning and 4-6 in the evening. The other requirement for full time status is to teach at least 17-20 hours a week. Because people can and do cancel, there obviously has to be some flexibility on the number! Logic says that to maintain the minimum hours, at least some mid-day work is necessary. Fortunately, I've been given several of those assignments. So, although I didn't talk about it much, I was not operating under any illusion this would be easy and comfortable. And that's before any consideration of preparation time for so many different classes each week!
I'm sure you are getting the picture here. 7:30-9 a.m. in one part of the city, then comes the routine: walk/walk, hop on, sit briefly, hop off, walk/walk (often accompanied by some degree of climbing) to arrive at another group, frequently in a very different section. Same thing, different place the next morning. And each afternoon a repeat, fortunately with different beautiful buildings, other interesting people to work and talk with and always a variety of faces to watch. To give them full credit, the Client Relations Managers (the folks who are in charge of our schedules) work very diligently to give us the time necessary to get from one place to another. There have been a couple times when they've been reduced to near begging and abject apology! And of course it is our mutual goal to keep the client happy! I have no idea how many steps I walk in a day. I do know I'm working on lengthening my stride. Logic tells me that if I cover more space in the same number of steps, I will arrive more quickly and do a favor for my body at the same time. I also know that the stairs down into the metro (subway) are in groups of 14-17, often with three sets. We're talking some serious steps in a day here!
Why am I talking about this? First, because it's such a major part of my new life/routine. Oh yes I'm tired when a day is complete. More importantly, however, it's on my mind because those steps are taking me to so many interesting thoughts.
Wednesday was a VERY long day -- began early with one of my favorite classes. Bright young people -- female corporate lawyer and male assistant marketing director at a personal products company (Unilever is a competitor and I've been aware of and used some of this company's products since my first trip here in 1990.) The day then moved through some rather normal events "down" into my least favorite group. You know this also: I dare you to teach me something! And then it was time (already 5:30) to make the trip to meet Iva for our first session. Little did I realize -- good thing -- the commute was over an hour each way. I also could not have realized what a gift it is to have time with her in the middle of each long week.
This assignment's SO different. First, it's in Iva's flat. She's invited me into her home and into her life. In many ways Iva seems to be representative of so many Czechs I see every day. Her life and mine are so similar -- school, college, memories of growing up and our favorite Christmas, college, marriage, a family with all its usual ups and downs, then work and a career change and constant sense of hangin' in there. Big difference? She's lived through some monumental changes of which I have only a third party knowledge. And she's obviously done it with grace and a lovely, somewhat shy smile. As we closed the door on the rest of the family -- eating the dinner she had prepared after work in, of course, a pressure cooker -- and settled down to begin our conversations (what a benefit to me that her primary goal is to talk!) I was so aware of two things. The first is how blessed I am to have been born when and where I was. The second is the universality of our experiences. Wife/mother/worker -- get it all done. That seems to know no boundaries, just a common thread of using what you can get to make it happen. She's changed jobs recently; better English -- and her conversation is already quite good though modest and hesitant -- will probably lead to a better job.
Time with Iva didn't reduce the number of steps or shorten the bus ride (and I do avoid a bus if at all possible -- they're so slow) but it changed the complexion of the day. And it makes it easier to face the next trip, and the one after that . . .
Iva's flat is way up on some hill miles out of "Old Prague". It's one of the "ubiquitous prefab Communist panelak housing estates ringing the city where much of the population still lives." (I told someone next day that I now knew where the "other million" of the Prague inhabitants live!) Quoting a guide book again: "local governments try to break up the grey monotony with two-tone paint jobs." Well, not at Iva's place! You're on your own if you want less monotony. And she certainly has done that within her crowded space. Lots of beautiful plants -- her Christmas cactus blooms three times a year: Christmas, Easter, and yet again. And even in the monotony and crush of buildings, after only a few of the many steps from the bus to her place I knew I felt safe and in some ways "at home."
I simply could not help reflecting on that hill and the others I could see from there. Who walked there 20 years ago, under the Russians? And 40? And 60, under the Germans? How about 100? At what point was it farms and villages, maybe only trees and forests. What an incredible country and people I'm blessed to share.
Oh yes -- another gift in the day? Walking out to see the same enormous moon that you were watching (I hope!!) Don't know if we could see the eclipse here. Do know that I missed it. And also know that if I had been with Alexander (oh, do I miss "my boys"!) we've would have had some serious conversations about it.
Bottom line for each of us - - day by day it's step by step. Tiring? Yes, sometimes. Interesting? Always, if we take the time and energy to let it become part of us.
Monday, February 18, 2008
76 Trombones
Well, maybe not, but certainly hundreds of instruments.
After spending weekend time getting things in order, preparing for the new week, and avoiding a really cold day, I took advantage of a lesson cancellation today to keep a promise to myself: I will visit the Museum of Music. One side note -- I tried earlier and simply could not make enough correct turns to find it. I knew from my original accidental discovery that it would be worth whatever effort another attempt required.
The Museum's new home is a very old space. It was originally the Church of St. Magdalene in the Lesser Town (same side of the river, just down the hill from The Castle, side by side by side with neighbors built in the same century -- the 17th!). It belonged to a Dominican Monastery which was closed in 1783 -- we're talking way over 100 years as a church before spending time as a post office, a police barracks, and an archive, among other things. There behind an enormous, heavy, dark old door which could be an entrance to any one of hundreds of Prague buildings is a clean 20th century renovation. Just through the swish of an electric-eye door is an enormous four-story hall with clean lines and an invitation to whisper or yell -- no middle choice there. And then, just at the next turn of a corner there are little nooks, small details which absolutely breathe church/sacred music/whispering cassocks. To stand at the first-floor railing overlooking what once must have been the "sanctuary" and nearly break a vertebrae looking up -- what an incredible view. Couldn't help but wonder what those windows must have seen, those walls must have heard.
All this is all before the instruments enter the scene. Yes, I saw Mozart's piano (or at least one of them), a krumhorn and other instruments (which were until now only organ stops/registration for me), 16 incredible flutes (teeny to huge) in only one of the display cases, two (not just one) glass harmoniums, square pianos, a giraffe piano, quarter-tone pianos, first attempts which became music makers we all recognize and those which left the scene nearly as early as they joined it. Oh my oh my. Walk and walk and walk, stop/look/listen -- there are marvelous listening posts nearly everywhere, and, more than anything, feel like such a small drop of water in the marvelous river of musical history.
About those trombones -- they and many, many other brass, woodwind, few-stringed and multiple-stringed instruments are there. And you should see the harps -- a whole room of them. By the way, the cases for some of the pianos simply defy description. Incredible woodworking!
What a way to start a week! And as I closed the door behind me I renewed my promise to return.
After spending weekend time getting things in order, preparing for the new week, and avoiding a really cold day, I took advantage of a lesson cancellation today to keep a promise to myself: I will visit the Museum of Music. One side note -- I tried earlier and simply could not make enough correct turns to find it. I knew from my original accidental discovery that it would be worth whatever effort another attempt required.
The Museum's new home is a very old space. It was originally the Church of St. Magdalene in the Lesser Town (same side of the river, just down the hill from The Castle, side by side by side with neighbors built in the same century -- the 17th!). It belonged to a Dominican Monastery which was closed in 1783 -- we're talking way over 100 years as a church before spending time as a post office, a police barracks, and an archive, among other things. There behind an enormous, heavy, dark old door which could be an entrance to any one of hundreds of Prague buildings is a clean 20th century renovation. Just through the swish of an electric-eye door is an enormous four-story hall with clean lines and an invitation to whisper or yell -- no middle choice there. And then, just at the next turn of a corner there are little nooks, small details which absolutely breathe church/sacred music/whispering cassocks. To stand at the first-floor railing overlooking what once must have been the "sanctuary" and nearly break a vertebrae looking up -- what an incredible view. Couldn't help but wonder what those windows must have seen, those walls must have heard.
All this is all before the instruments enter the scene. Yes, I saw Mozart's piano (or at least one of them), a krumhorn and other instruments (which were until now only organ stops/registration for me), 16 incredible flutes (teeny to huge) in only one of the display cases, two (not just one) glass harmoniums, square pianos, a giraffe piano, quarter-tone pianos, first attempts which became music makers we all recognize and those which left the scene nearly as early as they joined it. Oh my oh my. Walk and walk and walk, stop/look/listen -- there are marvelous listening posts nearly everywhere, and, more than anything, feel like such a small drop of water in the marvelous river of musical history.
About those trombones -- they and many, many other brass, woodwind, few-stringed and multiple-stringed instruments are there. And you should see the harps -- a whole room of them. By the way, the cases for some of the pianos simply defy description. Incredible woodworking!
What a way to start a week! And as I closed the door behind me I renewed my promise to return.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
The Wonder of Laundromats
Prague is the home of my new all-time favorite laundromat! So much to say about it - -
First, there's the name. Walking down Korunni (and yes, it is a bit of a hike to get clean clothes!) I almost missed the front door. It is in the lower floor -- not quite basement -- of a very old building. My pension is quite close to the center of Prague, walking distance (on a good day) from Wenceslas Square of Velvet Revolution history. So naturally the building is old. And the name is painted on the wall -- no signs extending into the sidewalk as an alert that the journey is almost ended. Suddenly, there it is. Andy's Laundromat. I'm imagining Andy as some young entrepreneur recognizing a need and finding a way to meet it (more on that later). Wrong. There on the wall are several pictures of "Our Andy", a really cute white Scottie. For me, that's a great way to start laundry time.
Second, there are the services. General laundromat expectations include working washers and dryers; detergent, bleach, and softener for sale; a few chairs -- comfort optional -- for the wait. Andy's has that beat, hands down. Washers/dryers aren't immediately visible; they're down the hall, past the computers, the "lounge" area, and the well equipped, safely enclosed playroom. And they do exist -- with English speaking staff to exchange your Czech crowns for laundromat tokens, sell supplies, and be sure any other need you may have is met. Speaking of service -- would you prefer coffee or tea? with milk and sugar? And no, you can't purchase it! By the way, you may also log on to the internet while your clothes are moving through the cycles.
During many moves, washer/dryer breakdowns, or treks away from home, I've had occasion to visit multiple laundromats. Clean clothes are a necessity; the bonus is the possibility of meeting interesting people. And Andy's may be the winner in this category also.
After only a few minutes, Don and I began to talk. He's an expat via London, roots in south GA, former Southern Baptist minister, living in the Czech Republic for six years, now a permanent resident, new home owner (mortgage approved just that afternoon), one of the pastors of the Unitarian church here. What a marvelous, wide ranging conversation. We stayed a bit longer than just folding our clothes, I think each feeling that the afternoon had given us a special gift.
Who could have predicted . . .? Here is one more new connection. So many common elements in our past. And here we are, enjoying the present moments, and talking about possibilities for future conversations. I am truly blessed and very grateful.
First, there's the name. Walking down Korunni (and yes, it is a bit of a hike to get clean clothes!) I almost missed the front door. It is in the lower floor -- not quite basement -- of a very old building. My pension is quite close to the center of Prague, walking distance (on a good day) from Wenceslas Square of Velvet Revolution history. So naturally the building is old. And the name is painted on the wall -- no signs extending into the sidewalk as an alert that the journey is almost ended. Suddenly, there it is. Andy's Laundromat. I'm imagining Andy as some young entrepreneur recognizing a need and finding a way to meet it (more on that later). Wrong. There on the wall are several pictures of "Our Andy", a really cute white Scottie. For me, that's a great way to start laundry time.
Second, there are the services. General laundromat expectations include working washers and dryers; detergent, bleach, and softener for sale; a few chairs -- comfort optional -- for the wait. Andy's has that beat, hands down. Washers/dryers aren't immediately visible; they're down the hall, past the computers, the "lounge" area, and the well equipped, safely enclosed playroom. And they do exist -- with English speaking staff to exchange your Czech crowns for laundromat tokens, sell supplies, and be sure any other need you may have is met. Speaking of service -- would you prefer coffee or tea? with milk and sugar? And no, you can't purchase it! By the way, you may also log on to the internet while your clothes are moving through the cycles.
During many moves, washer/dryer breakdowns, or treks away from home, I've had occasion to visit multiple laundromats. Clean clothes are a necessity; the bonus is the possibility of meeting interesting people. And Andy's may be the winner in this category also.
After only a few minutes, Don and I began to talk. He's an expat via London, roots in south GA, former Southern Baptist minister, living in the Czech Republic for six years, now a permanent resident, new home owner (mortgage approved just that afternoon), one of the pastors of the Unitarian church here. What a marvelous, wide ranging conversation. We stayed a bit longer than just folding our clothes, I think each feeling that the afternoon had given us a special gift.
Who could have predicted . . .? Here is one more new connection. So many common elements in our past. And here we are, enjoying the present moments, and talking about possibilities for future conversations. I am truly blessed and very grateful.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
A New Starting Point
Who would have thought? Who could have predicted. . .? Ahead of me was Czech customs and I was really here! What a ride it's been since then. Perhaps a chronological catchup would be in order.
-- Taxi ride from the airport to my wonderful pension -- terrific family "taking care of me", superb location right by St. James (my work) and marvelous transportation everywhere, it seems. The ride was both remembered and new. What changes since the first trip in 1990 (which feels as tho' it were yesterday). Some are practical -- it isn't nearly as difficult to find/use English. Some are disheartening -- the graffiti is everywhere! Most are, from my point of view, just plain wonderful. It is so good to be at this next step of life.
-- Friday was the first day at work. Joined the "faculty" with two other Americans. One a middle years woman who came straight from five years of teaching English in Japan, the other a young man right out of college. We are indeed a mixed group. There are about 130 teachers, 40 of whom are full time. Already I'm finding some who seem to be possible good friends, some who are folks from whom I know I can learn a lot, and others I haven't quite figured out! Never could I have predicted I'd be taken on at a place which brings together so many of the things I've done and enjoyed over the years. And I certainly would not have predicted how much I'd enjoy returning to teaching. I didn't even know enough about it to wish for it! If you're interested in knowing a bit more about the centre, check out the (not updated) website -- stjames.cz
-- The weekend was a blur of catching up on myself and trying to prepare for a new week.
-- First week was a somewhat limited schedule and a bit of a chance to get used to the wide variety of resources St. J has for its teachers. Must say it was wonderful to have even limited access to the computers, since I was still not online. One big lesson already apparent is how accustomed I've become to having nearly instant access to family and friends, especially when needed. I've learned a big lesson about the impact internet and cell phones have on both my spirits and general productivity and how much I depend on them.
--Second weekend looked as tho' it might involve a move into long-term accommodation. It didn't -- and I'm still here at Holiday Home (my pension). If curious -- at holidayhome.cz you can see "my" front door right behind the blue car at the Prague location. Then it looked as tho' this weekend would be it. Wrong again. Finding a share is becoming a major job! And I have no idea how that will work out. I can only trust that it will. Kim, the other new female teacher and I were looking for something together. Practicality seems to insist we have to find what we can find -- asap!
-- Second work week was both wonderful and exhausting. There are two requirements to sign on as a full time teacher (me): you will teach 17-20 hours a week at minimum, and you will be available for St. James to give you an assignment at peak hours -- between 7:30-9 a.m. and 4-6 p.m. On paper that sounds early but not too bad. Right! I'm out around 6:30 (yes, it's still dark!) on the day I have a 7:30 class. On two other days I begin at 8. And just a day ago I was asked to take a very late class the night before. On paper it sounds as tho' there might be a lot of time off between peak hours. Wrong again! Yep, I'm tired. And all the classes are taught at the client companies. That means either metro (which takes many more stairs and much more walking and gets you there more quickly) or tram (which has much more frequent hop-on-hop-off opportunities and allows viewing various parts of this marvelous old old city). My doctor should be thrilled -- I've walked and walked and . . . .
Yes, I'd love to have the last settling-in step completed. Don't know what it will be, but I'm sure right things are happening behind the scenes with it just as they were with this whole wonderful dream-come-true.
And I thought I was a work-in-progress before this adventure! I can hardly begin to examine/count/understand/learn all the incredible images, opportunities, and lessons that only 17 days (but who's counting!) have brought. I see and hear so many things to share.
Enough for now! I'll be back with more . . .
.
-- Taxi ride from the airport to my wonderful pension -- terrific family "taking care of me", superb location right by St. James (my work) and marvelous transportation everywhere, it seems. The ride was both remembered and new. What changes since the first trip in 1990 (which feels as tho' it were yesterday). Some are practical -- it isn't nearly as difficult to find/use English. Some are disheartening -- the graffiti is everywhere! Most are, from my point of view, just plain wonderful. It is so good to be at this next step of life.
-- Friday was the first day at work. Joined the "faculty" with two other Americans. One a middle years woman who came straight from five years of teaching English in Japan, the other a young man right out of college. We are indeed a mixed group. There are about 130 teachers, 40 of whom are full time. Already I'm finding some who seem to be possible good friends, some who are folks from whom I know I can learn a lot, and others I haven't quite figured out! Never could I have predicted I'd be taken on at a place which brings together so many of the things I've done and enjoyed over the years. And I certainly would not have predicted how much I'd enjoy returning to teaching. I didn't even know enough about it to wish for it! If you're interested in knowing a bit more about the centre, check out the (not updated) website -- stjames.cz
-- The weekend was a blur of catching up on myself and trying to prepare for a new week.
-- First week was a somewhat limited schedule and a bit of a chance to get used to the wide variety of resources St. J has for its teachers. Must say it was wonderful to have even limited access to the computers, since I was still not online. One big lesson already apparent is how accustomed I've become to having nearly instant access to family and friends, especially when needed. I've learned a big lesson about the impact internet and cell phones have on both my spirits and general productivity and how much I depend on them.
--Second weekend looked as tho' it might involve a move into long-term accommodation. It didn't -- and I'm still here at Holiday Home (my pension). If curious -- at holidayhome.cz you can see "my" front door right behind the blue car at the Prague location. Then it looked as tho' this weekend would be it. Wrong again. Finding a share is becoming a major job! And I have no idea how that will work out. I can only trust that it will. Kim, the other new female teacher and I were looking for something together. Practicality seems to insist we have to find what we can find -- asap!
-- Second work week was both wonderful and exhausting. There are two requirements to sign on as a full time teacher (me): you will teach 17-20 hours a week at minimum, and you will be available for St. James to give you an assignment at peak hours -- between 7:30-9 a.m. and 4-6 p.m. On paper that sounds early but not too bad. Right! I'm out around 6:30 (yes, it's still dark!) on the day I have a 7:30 class. On two other days I begin at 8. And just a day ago I was asked to take a very late class the night before. On paper it sounds as tho' there might be a lot of time off between peak hours. Wrong again! Yep, I'm tired. And all the classes are taught at the client companies. That means either metro (which takes many more stairs and much more walking and gets you there more quickly) or tram (which has much more frequent hop-on-hop-off opportunities and allows viewing various parts of this marvelous old old city). My doctor should be thrilled -- I've walked and walked and . . . .
Yes, I'd love to have the last settling-in step completed. Don't know what it will be, but I'm sure right things are happening behind the scenes with it just as they were with this whole wonderful dream-come-true.
And I thought I was a work-in-progress before this adventure! I can hardly begin to examine/count/understand/learn all the incredible images, opportunities, and lessons that only 17 days (but who's counting!) have brought. I see and hear so many things to share.
Enough for now! I'll be back with more . . .
.
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