Day Tripping

And what a day! Křivoklát - - - - - -

Sometimes everything falls in place, seemingly effortlessly. Sunday, 10 August was one of those days. The sky couldn't have been more blue, the weather couldn't have been better, and the company? We certainly weren't Thelma and Louise plus one but we were, however, a trio of women ready for adventure. Toni, a friend and colleague, was the moving force. Our plan had even been moved forward a week, which meant happily that Iva, Toni's student, could join us. Iva's a doctor (neurologist) with regular "duties", mother of two teenagers who, miraculously, left on time for a week with their father, a dancer (for fun and exercise), a certified medical translator, and works for a pharmaceutical company -- makes me feel like a real loafer. She was ready to savor every minute and brought all her Czech know-how and love of weekend trips. That included securing a group rate (three's a crowd, remember?) on the train, a backpack with homemade blueberry bread, and an edited translation of the guide as we took our tour.

Křivoklát is real castle in a magical setting. High on a rocky hill amid breathtaking scenery, it was founded in the 12th century as a hunting lodge, then grew into one of the most important defensible castles of Czech kings, princes, and dukes. [I hope you'll take a minute to web search and see several of the beautiful pictures.] Křivoklát was rebuilt in various portions of the castle several times following damaging fires, but went into decline after it became a feared prison, final "home" to many distinguished guests, beginning in the 16th century. (I'd read about it earlier in connection with Edward Kelly, the most infamous alchemist of the 1500s. Now he's remembered with a large frescoe on the wall of a restaurant as well as in the history books.) In the 19th century the Furstenberg family restored it, adding Romantic touches as well as their library of over 52,000 volumes, only half of which are on display in the comfy library along with family portraits.

The train trip takes about 90 minutes, first on a normal inter-city train, then a quick transfer to a "motor train" which winds its way along the beautiful Berounka River, complete with a couple smaller castles, villages, weekend cottages, and even tents for campers. Once again my praise for Czech transportation. Even though this is not as touristy a site as other castles (thankfully), the on-time departures are regular and frequent. And trains are obviously the connection between out-of-the-way villages for the inhabitants.

A lovely pathway of brick pavers has been cut into a rocky ledge at the side of the river, complete with railing for those of us less hardy souls. It leads straight to the center of the town with its narrow, winding roads -- look and listen carefully before attempting to cross. You get only a few seconds' view of an oncoming car driving along the tight curves. Ahead is the cobblestone drive/walk to the castle which redefines steep, at least for me. It is so steep that once we began the climb it was nearly impossible to see the goal. And looking down on the winding road we'd left was almost like viewing an historical diorama -- little houses, "toy" cars, a hotel that had been on its site for well over a century, and a river that looked as tho' it had been etched in place by a woodcarver's knife. Breathtaking, literally and figuratively.

It is easy to imagine the fortifications when entering through a long, curved and vaulted cobblestone "tunnel". Of course it wouldn't be designed to give invaders a straight shot into the courtyard! Later in the day the walls resounded with the clatter of horses hooves as a large group left for a ride. Again easy to imagine knights and soldiers departing for whatever assignment they'd been given. During the summer the courtyard is filled with craftspeople -- woodcarvers, metal workers, brewers, serving folk, troubadours giving magic shows for children. It was almost like being transported back through the centuries to a time when the activity was necessary work for the maintenance of life within. An historical novel come alive! Then there is the tower, the inner courtyard, and at last the guided tour. Long, (Czech) detailed, and wonderful. Wish we'd known you have to ask for the printed English version when you purchase tickets -- often castle guides distribute them as the tour begins. The guide was a personable young man who appeared to be able to spend another two hours talking about "his" castle. In the library, nearly the end of the tour, we discovered he also speaks English, and learned it is a requirement for working there. How different from '91, my first visit, when it felt as though Michael was one of very few English speakers in Czechoslovakia!

What a "home". Again imagination can take over -- life must have been hard. At one point I commented I was grateful that I wasn't a soldier running up the narrow, winding steps to the fortifications. And the distance to the kitchen -- grateful I'm not a serving maid. Someone once mentioned to me that it is interesting people who talked about previous lives were almost always royalty or some member of the upper class, almost never a servant. Right!

Very late lunch in the courtyard -- traditional Czech food and great beer (of course). More walking around outside, then down the cobblestones to the hotel courtyard for an iced coffee -- it's made with ice cream here! -- up the path to the train station, and a lovely though crowded trip home.

What a day! I'm so glad you could join me for yet another incredible memory. Can hardly wait to see what's next.