There were four of us: two colleagues, Toni (who has been here nearly five years now, very positive, friendly, sharp, and becoming a good friend, and the organizational genius behind all the great little outings), Anne (a former fifth grade teacher who then went to Saipan and taught, has been here a year, and is now going home next week to live near her son as he finishes college and gets on with life), Eva (Toni's student, the doctor who has two teenagers, went to the castle with Toni and me a couple weeks ago, and is so much fun). It was just the right mix of people. We were all ready to have an adventure, a great day. The weather was perfect, the train ride along the Berounka River was scenic, and the mile walk into town set the stage -- lovely little homes, beautifully tended gardens, and people ready to celebrate. We'd reached our destination: Dobrichovice, a town of 3000 people southwest of Prague.
The event was their annual wine festival -- and what a great big deal it is. One of the main streets running beside the river is closed off -- entrance "gates" are placed on each end. That's where you pay your entrance fee, get stamped, then "buy" your own wine glass to carry around the remainder of the day as well as tickets to pay for the wine at each booth. I think they've thought of everything! And yes, when you leave you can exchange your glass for a clean one to take home! (As tho' I need a wine glass!)
One long side of the street is lined with booths of wine sellers -- varieties of wines, varieties of people. Each booth is arranged at its holiday best, each one different from the one next to it. Such great variety in such small spaces (much like the homes, actually). There are little refrigerators to keep the proper wines cool, some booths have bread for your palate, others have sweets to go with dessert wines, and of course some have just wine, lots of it! Even bottled water to rinse your glass! And I cannot forget to tell you about all the terrific information about the wines, the wineries, even the region, all in Czech of course!
You can "taste" anything that interests you -- certainly more than a couple drops -- and buy either a glass (or more) of wine or bottles of wine. It took us quite awhile to move around, particularly since each of us had to taste from the wine seller, then share our selection with one of the others, then have a discussion -- just as though we knew what we were talking about! The whole mood was nearly magic -- so much happening, such a festive place and occasion, and each of us more than willing to suspend everyday concerns and tasks simply to enjoy. Walk / sip / look around / sip / listen to the music while sipping / lean on an old post / listen / and most of all, talk about everything except work. It was as if time had been turned off just for our rejuvenation!
The other side of the street is "entertainment." A small, very old village church was nearly midway on the street, and outside it was a booth and viewing area for a magic show, complete with a magician/entertainer . Most of the afternoon he was walking around teasing with people and entertaining kids -- walking on stilts -- the springy kind, not wooden -- wearing a medieval costume and carrying a town flag. Later he did several shows for the kids, and of course their parents. There were vendors grilling sausages (big wursts, a very traditional Czech treat); two bands, one folk, the other jazz, on separate ends of the street; a kids' carnival with rides at the riverside. Toni suggested we might want to "rent a kid" so we also could ride. It looked like everyone was having a grand time.
One apparently "upscale" restaurant had taken out all its tables/chairs and had two (long) lines for buying food. In one line you could select some or all of a wide variety of fantastic olives. The other line displayed at least 15 different kinds of cheeses plus a platter of ham. Each person stated how much of which kinds, then paid by weight at the end of the line, where there was also a big basket of free dark bread, toothpicks for sharing food, and knives to cut/share cheese. What a great treat to go with the wine! Two of us bought olives, two of us cheese. Once we found a bench so our knees could become tables, some went out to get more wine for each of us.
Toni had learned about the festival from one of her students, Daniel. He is the longest running ever -- and that's a long time in the Czech Republic! -- president of the town council. His family's been in the town for generations. As a matter of fact, his great, great grandfather built and owned the power plant right on the Berounka River. Of course during the two "recent" occupations it was taken over. It was returned to the family -- he has restored/renovated it completely, turned it into a home for his family, another home for his parents, and an office "complex". The project launched his "new" career, and what an entrepreneur he is. Restoration, renovation, and development have become his business. We were able to see other projects he is either in the middle of or has completed. He has offices in Prague as well as Dobrichovice, and this is and will continue to be his home, keeping all those roots alive. Because it is a bedroom community for Prague -- 30 minutes by train, don't even need a car! -- the town is growing. But Daniel and his cohorts on the council certainly give great meaning to "controlled growth."
The day was even more fun because we met and talked with Daniel, heard stories from Toni about the different houses/flat buildings being renovated, etc. that she'd heard in class. We walked and walked and walked and walked. The mile+ from the train station, around everywhere, more than a mile down a lovely cobblestoned lane, just looking around and talking, then of course back, then the mile+ back to the train station, just on the other side of the river. What a day. Our train there left at 2:30, we returned to the station at 7:30 -- a perfect amount of time. And we actually got to the Dobrechovice (that's a mouthful) station about 2 minutes before the train home pulled in. Perfect timing! Great day, great event, great company.
Another adventure. Who would have thought an ordinary Saturday could become such a treat, could create another chapter of incredible memories. Great day, great company, great little town. Hope you enjoyed the journey with me.
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