more ordinary events. To top the list there is the magic of the first snow. Yes, I know. It won't be long before I'll be wishing it away, or even, perhaps, homebound because of it. For now it brings happy memories, new views in this beautiful city, and the sense of yet another new beginning. Calendars can announce the seasons, nature can give signs of coming "attractions," but the first snow is, for me, always a special moment.
Friday I walked out of the laundromat into a driving sleet storm -- not at all magical, I might add. The forecast had included some chance of snow for Saturday, but that caught me totally unaware. And soaked (even with an umbrella, my constant companion!). And very chilled by the time I reached the flat. Saturday morning brought scattered flakes which stuck, creating a patchwork of red roofs and white snow outside my window, the changing scenery actually distracting as I was working.
In the late afternoon I found my boots, wrapped up in a long scarf, grabbed my gloves, and ventured out carefully for an evening with "the bunch", fun as always. And came out after dinner and conversation to an all-white world. It was real snow. Everything was covered. And of course it invited a snowball fight! This was the good, packable stuff! You knew when you had been nailed. I learned while waiting for the tram home that Pragers do slow down when driving on snow! The cars were inching up or down the hill quite carefully. And the world was beautiful. I was in my own private snow globe, and someone had given it a good shake! A picture book ending to yet another interesting evening.
The restaurant of the evening -- U Karel IV, (Charles IV, a much admired king) is a neighborhood gathering place with really good food, nice low prices, and one convenient tram ride away for me! Gotta love that combination! Along with that, the combination of people and backgrounds and topics adds up to a great evening and a whole new set of things to ponder later every time we get together. A interesting change in the evening was the addition of a couple visitors to the conversational and national mix. One, a Venezuelan business man now living in Toronto, and another a "new" Czech friend of one of my colleagues who just may become a "regular." As usual -- a great evening. And as always, yet another chance to keep assembling the puzzle of life!
The snowballers went on to Arnaud's flat for a post-dinner gathering. He's one of the people I feel so fortunate to know and am so glad that the friendship is deepening. (And yes, it does feel good to know he enjoys being around me also, in spite of our age difference.) I was sorry to miss it, but glad to come home to a - -
Skype call from Matthew and Alexander. Because of all the i'net problems, those calls have been pretty few and far between for the past few months. Alexander is SO tall, and is it wonderful to see them together in the big chair, teasing each other, having a good time, going back and forth in our conversation. The wonders of technology! And it's free. We actually talked for nearly an hour. High point? Beyond just seeing them and being "together", that is. Reading The Velveteen Rabbit together. Matthew had found it in a sale bin, brought it home and saved it for our time together. He was right -- Granne did get chocked up at the memories! (He actually said to A. "You watch your Granne. She's going to - - -" Sometimes it's just not good to be so predictable.) And I'll be waiting my chance to go through some of the generational changes with Alexander at another time. All the 1922 references.... What a great way to keep life connections. And to remind a growing boy about the power of being loved.
Three of us had set up a much anticipated Saturday morning excursion to the Asian Art Museum with Arnaud as a guide (he was an art student in Paris for several years) which fell through at the last minute because of conflicts. I can leave it on my anticipation list, however, and know it'll be great when we're able to do it. Zbraslav is a charming little "village" that is now part of Prague. The Museum is part of a family castle taken over by some former regime, now restored to the family. My understanding is that they have just been granted the whole place back. Pity! Actually good for them, sad for the fate of the museum. And the cancellation gave me some extra work time yesterday a.m. which I promptly squandered!
Today brings another treat -- I'm quite sure this one will happen as planned. I'm having brunch with my T'giving dinner co-hostess. It's time to put the last minute plans together -- that includes how we get plates, knives/forks, and other assorted party requirements from my place to hers. The menu is long and really inviting. And I can hardly believe the time is here. It means Ocean Spray (the fresh variety, that is) better start showing up pretty soon!
I'm sure I've mentioned my terrific flatmate, Thomas. He's great. Three months now, and I'm still in the camp of the lucky few who aren't complaining about this and that and something else with their flatmate -- or just downright totally disgusted. I can't find a complaint. Isn't that terrific. I really enjoy hearing him practice his guitar -- reminiscent of times with Lotte in NYC, listening to her chamber groups rehearsing in the living room. Of course, Theresa and I wanted him at the Dinner, and happily he said yes. And he's bringing his grandmother's corn pudding, which is a staple in their T'giving meals.
If I end up baking half the turkey in my oven because neither hers nor mine will accommodate the whole one, we're going to have quite a juggling act going on here. And then a great Saturday afternoon/evening when it is all put together. I believe we have about 16 people coming -- I do so hope they all come -- and she's a person who has to plan "games." And I'm very happy to let her do it!
Last Monday was a holiday for me -- and the whole Czech Republic. It was Freedom Day, celebrating the beginning of the Velvet Revolution in 1989. Thanksgiving is NOT a Czech holiday -- hence the Saturday dinner. So I enjoyed the last one and will work through this one.
A small further note -- I have yet another new student. How blessed I am with my students, my schedule, and all the opportunities to learn. I begin with this man Tuesday. He's head of HR in the region for a global pharmaceutical. My boss says he's in his 50s, fluent in English, but wants to gain confidence in meetings with native speakers. This will be even more fun!
It is snowing again -- that's probably a good sign to wrap this up and get on with some preparation for the school week. I wish you a Happy Thanksgiving, safety on whatever journeys you and your loved ones are making, good fun, good eating, and the creation of even more good memories. And in these difficult times, I'm going to end with some words from Reinhold Niebuhr which "grabbed" me again this week.
Nothing worth doing is completed in our lifetime; therefore, we are saved by hope.
Nothing true or beautiful or good makes complete sense in any immediate contest of history; therefore we are
saved by faith.
Nothing we do, however virtuous, can be accomplished alone; therefore, we are saved by love.
No virtuous act is quite as virtuous from the standpoint of our friend or foe as from our own; therefore we are saved
by the final form of love, which is forgiveness."
Wishing you a special day devoted to counting once again our blessings and giving our thanks. I will be thinking of you. . .
Greetings from the laundromat once again. My long silence is occasioned by an internet wasteland! Still no regular service on my own computer, though we're getting closer to the solution. Yes, it's been very difficult psychologically and emotionally. I'm frequently reminded of my grandmother and her cross country trek to make the Oklahoma Run(s). Makes me look like a spoiled child in comparison.
So much to say, so many wonderful things happening, such great experiences, and the usual limits of time and space. The question is where to begin. Certainly not at the beginning. . . . .
A quick "Reader's Digest" version of life in the past six weeks or so. (Sorry for the silence -- you would have enjoyed accompanying me on so many of the everyday adventures)
It is fascinating to watch the similarities of life even though there has been a partial turn of the globe. I've already been made very aware of the slight, but noticeable difference in the length of the days (or lack thereof, as I'm seeing it now). Have I already mentioned that we are at 50 degrees N, which I believe is a bit farther than any continental US city? That meant that I walked home after 10 p.m. in the summer while it was still soft light. And now? I come home in near darkness, even when I am just returning at 7 p.m. from a class -- there really is a difference! AND we haven't reached Dec. 21 yet!
Another "same but different"? -- the change of seasons. I must admit to some serious nostalgia for October in New England, for hearing Don Kent or John Quill (followed by others, of course) keep us up to date on how far south the peak color had travelled. Though I wouldn't tell my Czech friends, in my current surroundings I've seen nothing approaching the explosion and brilliance of the colors. And yes, I do miss it.
The second "same but different" is happening with the "fall back". This being the last Sunday in October, we turn our clocks back an hour tonight. And you have one more week before you get that extra hour of sleep.
As for the teaching routine -- it just keeps getting better. I walk around each day under a silver cloud of gratitude. I am nearly incapable of listing all the various ways I am blessed just to be here -- opportunity/timing, health, the encouragement of family and friends, each heading with numerous subheadings. The list goes on and on. But then there is the topic of StJ. I continue to feel so fortunate that we chose each other.
The contract/term is from September to June, and I am sure I mentioned that many companies stop English lessons over the summer. Not only did most of "my" companies continue, I was able to teach some wonderful students employed by other companies while their teachers were away. I taught nearly as many summer hours as during the regular term. And to think I had been concerned.
Now that we're in the next full term, I've been given several new classes with terrific students. The Client Relations Managers (folks who work with the clients then assign classes to the teachers) have been SO good to me. They have intentionally given me classes back-to-back at several sites. Not only does that mean I make one trip to/from and get paid for two classes, it also means there is less running around. (And I've been good to them in return -- my students like my teaching which, of course, brings in more business!)
One of my new students is a translator for a German/Czech company. He's Czech, spent years teaching German at post-high school level, and is now in a position in which he works directly with the Board of Directors. Another is in charge of HR in seven countries for an American pharmaceutical company. A third is a partner in a company which invests in or buys companies to make them profitable or help them grow. The only "problem" with having students such as this is that they travel a lot for their work, so sometimes we don't have our lesson. But what a grand time I have talking with them. Each of them is advanced, a fascinating conversationalist, and eager to bring in or simply discuss things they've read/heard. I certainly anticipate their lessons each week. I also have several advanced students from last term. SO glad they have continued with me.
And speaking of advanced students - - - In October I began my own version StJ's Pub Night. The name is not entirely fitting because we met in Zofin Garden, a lovely, upscale restaurant at the rear of Zofin Palace, home to many historic concerts, exhibits, and sophisticated evenings. The site is an island in the Vlatava river, just a short bridge away from the main street alongside the River, which leads to Charles Bridge, Old Town, and then across the river to the Lesser Quarter. Four other advanced students work for Zatisi Group, the company which received the contract to be the "restaurant" for this new site. Of course they felt this would be the best place for us to meet. And instead of being dark and smoky (a pub), the evening was bright and spring-like (a Newport or Ascot tent setting). Pub Night (mine, that is) is an opportunity for any of my students (also students of other colleagues if they're interested) to gather for food/drink, and social conversation. Only requirement is that they are able to converse freely in English. And how the talk did jump around. Everyone who could attend was so pleased with the night, and as for me, it was great to hear/see. We'll do this once a month. I'm so glad to be a part of it.
In keeping with my resolve of doing something each weekend that I could not do in the US, last weekend I took tram 22, aka the Tourist Tram because it winds its way through so many historic sights, right through the middle of the Lesser Quarter, up the hills and around the curves to Prague Castle, past Brevnov Monastery, and on to Bila Hora (White Mountain), site of the first decisive battle of the Thirty Years' War. (The Protestants lost.) The site itself is unremarkable. I could not help but think, however, about the bloodshed, loss, destruction and death brought about in the name of religion. And -- by the way -- this battle occurred the same year the Pilgrims landed in Boston.
The other outstanding memory of that trip is watching scores of families flying their kites in a park at least several acres square, its trees providing the outer rim, giving free rein to myriad colors, multiple shapes, and lots of bright jackets from toddler to grandparent size. What fun, even if only watching.
Oh my, this has become long. At least you know all is well here -- except a dependable internet connection, that is. More later. . .
The summer term and the school month ended yesterday. That means I have yet another round of month-end reporting to complete and a new folder to assemble for each class -- all those time consuming tasks which must be completed but which seem to add very little to a sense of accomplishment or the quality of life. It certainly is satisfying when it's out of the way, however, and my deadline is tomorrow evening. The transition also means I'm losing a few very enjoyable classes as their regular teachers return from holiday, and I will pick up a few who have begun a new contract with StJ.
Yes, I continue to be grateful that I am here, so appreciative that StJ hired me, and so thankful for the good, full schedule the Client Relations Managers keep giving me. (I was one of the few folks not complaining about lack of work during the summer, though I also had fewer hours than normal and hope to get that back up beginning Monday!) Each day I find new reasons to enjoy my surroundings in this beautiful and historic city, my varied and interesting colleagues, my marvelous (it seems I keep getting the "best") students, and most of all, the opportunites that just keep popping up. What a incredible space in which to be spending this part of my life -- how wonderfully unexpected and how exciting, even in its most quiet and pensive moments.
And pensive is how I've been lately. We passed an anniversary a week ago, and it has been ever present in my thoughts both in the runup and followup. Did "your" press remind you of the Russian invasion of Czechoslovakia on August 21, 1968? (And that it was the second time in 30 years that the machinery of war filled their streets.) Even having only English, I would have to have been deaf, dumb, and blind to miss it here! In each class I asked only once what they had heard about the event, and without prompting the conversations continued. Only a couple students were old enough to have personal memories -- and they lived in villages where there were very few changes in their daily lives, particularly because they were so young at the time. But there were stories about their parents, stories which seemed to have been hidden away, repressed for a variety of reasons.
One young man told me of finding a collection of all the newspapers articles and photographs of the event as he sorted through his father's belongings after his death, only months before the Velvet Revolution. It had never been mentioned in the home. The discovery prompted an interest in history and sadness that his father had not lived to see the next change.
Asking about 1968 also brought forth stories about 1989. One student told me that his class at school in northern Bohemia had begged to be excused so they could join the demonstrations and celebrations in Prague. Because the day off was refused, they wore red,white, and blue ribbons for days in honor of their "new" country.
Most moving to me, however, have been the photographic exhibits of the event. One is in Wenceslas (as in "Good King. . .") Square (Vaclavski Namesti) where there was also a replica of one of the tanks. Another was at an exhibition space in the City Hall at Old Town Square, a square that has seen so much conflict and managed to come through / bounce back each time, but not without human suffering. I wish you could have been with me to look at the faces in those photographs and help me sort out my impressions and feelings. Czechs are so "white" -- except for the old buildings those tanks could have been rumbling down any American street. Those faces so distorted with horror and anger could have been my neighbors and family. And I cannot believe we "deserve" to be spared! Nor do I believe any people "deserve" an event such as that.
I know -- it's complicated. I know -- we have individual responsibility for the results of our actions, our inaction, our elections, for our silence (and I am probably more guilty than the next) and complicity. I know, I know, I know. And yet I cannot walk away from the faces. I cannot look past the bullet holes still remaining in some of the buildings.
My mind continues to stumble forward as it tries to understand human (and inhuman) behavior. I cannot refuse to hear the mutterings about how things were better under communism or why everything is just fine now. And it is interesting to hear young views of political misconduct, of apparent refusal to recognize the interconnectedness of our world, of how vulnerable they still feel caught between manipulative leaders! Weaving one life is so complicated -- the threads of the warp and the woof seem to tangle constantly, and the pattern certainly is still confusing. How much more complicated when all the other threads are pulled through to make a village, a community. Trying to understand how people learn, how they view the world, and why some need it to be so simple and others can live in such ambiguity has kept me mentally engaged for years now. Seeing those faces does not make it easier. Nor is it any easier to have a different landscape, to hear different inflections and unknown words as I go through each day. I cannot use "different" as an excuse or an apology.
There is so much still churning around in my head and heart. I think of personal friends who have paid dearly for taking an unpopular stance. I look at the photographs and wonder where my face would be, how I would behave if this had been my world. I continue to do what is expected each day -- the things I have promised StJ, my students, and those who have believed in me I would do. There's so much to ponder. . .
I'll continue the journey and hope you'll stay with me. School is about to resume. I can tell by the activity in front of the one on my street -- lots of boxes, teachers taking new items in to decorate the school rooms, lists in front of the building saying who goes where and when. I'm quite sure the tourist season is not over, though it may have peaked. And I know there are lots of village and town festivals and activities planned for the fall. I will keep you posted. There's more to follow. So many new things, interesting people, and exciting events. I hope you're enjoying it also.
What a wild couple of weeks! Lots of ups and downs -- most annoying was that my internet connection was perpetually down. It spends days down and minutes up, and I'm sure we're not finished with this yet! For almost three weeks now it has been unavailable for days/weeks at a time, then returning -- perhaps -- in 30-minute spurts at random times. Reminds me of inserting coins for heat in Great Britain.
One of the things I remember very clearly from an article discussing Culture Shock sent to me as I finished my certification was, I believe, Step 3: Becoming annoyed at things which don't work as you expect. And of course my mental response was that I wouldn't let it happen to me. Frankly, I'd been annoyed enough (mostly quietly and usually only to myself) at things in Durham that I wondered how that could possibly be a problem. Well -- take away my connection and I quickly find out! It is a lifeline for me mentally and emotionally. My family is on the other end, wherever they may be at any time. My friends are around, even when we're not in constant contact. And, of course, it is my connection with information I need from StJ as well as an opportunity to research topics needed for teaching.
This object lesson in the importance of connection and communication has reminded me over and over of my incredible, wonderful grandmother -- homesteading twice in Oklahoma as it was opened for settlers. (Never mind the people who were already living there. And, by the way, some Czechs mentioned our past with the Indians just this week. What could I say . . . ?) What a difference in my choices and hers. My goodness, I can actually see Alexander as we talk on Skype. Almost no one is very far away, when I have a connection, that is.
And an up? I now have all of my visa completed! Hooray. We were notified the processing was complete, and one of the young women from the StJ office made the trip to Vienna to pick them up at the Embassy for Kim and me. I believe I'd already mentioned we couldn't leave the country then return in fewer than 90 days unless it was complete and in our hand. After she received them, we had three days to get a stamp from the Foreign (aka Alien) Police. Of course, they were closed on one of those days, and we had to save the other in case something went wrong. There are lots of stories about how much can go wrong and how awful the day at the FP can be. So at 4:45 a.m. Monday we joined a great hoarde of non-Czechs, some of whom had slept there overnight to be at the front of the line, which at that point was a long distance from where we stood. What chaos. There were even several imitations of a military-style regimentation from a couple people who had obviously taken money from a long list of people on the promise that they would be put at the front of the line. Fortunately, there were others who helped us stand our ground. Actually, just describing the people in my immediate vicinity and the varieties of humanity, humour, and helpful/lessness would take many pages. Police arrived to keep order about 6:30 and the doors opened an hour later. The crush was unbelievable, even with what small semblance of order had been restored. With all the right paperwork -- and StJ made sure everything was in order -- groups of 20 or so entered at one time to receive a number. Sort of a deli counter without food! All the numbers for the day had been given out before 11!
To make a long story with lots of twists, turns, and very interesting people short - - - in only eight hours I was out of there, new visa firmly affixed to my passport. And my words to the young woman who joined us from StJ (just in case we needed any translation) were, "I believe I've waited 18 years for this." It was, indeed, a happy moment. I've been "legal" since arriving, taking required steps at the right time. It's just that now it is all together in one very important place. What a wonderful moment.
I've also learned about hospitals and medical insurance recently. Proof of medical insurance is required for the visa. It took one very long morning, lots of running around, and a significant amount of money to get that completed. The man who did my paperwork was a delight to work with -- gave great explanations and went out of his way to make it all work just right.
You guessed it -- only a week later I needed it. My foot (what else do I need more than my feet for all this running around, huh!) was really severely injured when a woman knocked me off balance and then hit my weight-bearing leg with her little pull cart. Oh my it hurt. One more shortened story -- StJ gave me all the right information, checked out the insurance process, got everything in line for the hospital, where I had to go to the Foreign Office. (There's that word again!) Apparently this hospital is especially good at dealing with EU and other non-Czech speaking folks. I cannot believe how smoothly it all went, almost no waiting, extremely helpful and solicitous people, a great woman doctor who gave good information and instructions. Could not have been better, including the fact that their English was great and they took care of insurance coverage without having to go through reimbursement! Nothing was broken, though it still doesn't work right. I came out with one heck of a wrap that I'm to wear for five days. And I can get around quite well. I am SO blessed. So you and I continue to travel on together.
Oh yes, other changes. This is the time of the year for saying goodbye to new friends and colleagues. Over the past several weeks colleagues who had become new friends have left for other, not necessarily greener pastures. A couple to grad school, a couple to continue their retirement, some looking for another country they want to visit. And yes, there are empty spaces even though our differing schedules meant that we didn't see each other regularly. Certainly the hiring process is in full swing, and there will be other new faces in the fall. But I feel fortunate to have met some really lovely people and gotten to know them even for a short time.
The leave taking and summer break for the client companies combine to bring about a lot of schedule changes. I'm so grateful that the Client Managers have given me some great new people to work with and many of my regular students/companies are continuing through the summer. I just have to get the different routes and times changed mentally. Oh, yes -- this is a right turn, not a left turn today!
As for change - - - it is indeed the constant. Even when the schedule and the days look as though they will be the same or very similar, something wonderful happens. Here it is a new week -- wonder what it will bring!
Travel in peace and with joy - - -
