Showing posts with label Friends. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Friends. Show all posts

Saturday, January 17, 2009

The Circle I'm In

Another busy week, full of the ordinary, blessed with those shining moments of anticipation/realization which seem to give life to more moments that are equal mixtures of routine and shimmer.

The week started with a marvelous morning at the Foreign Police. And I am passing it along for two reasons: first, because it is so seldom that
marvelous and Foreign Police are used in the same sentence, and second because it was such a successful encounter. It was not wonderful to answer the alarm at 3:30 a.m. and realize my US friends had not even gone to bed yet. (I'm sure that jolt was not helpful in getting re-oriented to Prague time!) I am now carrying (a copy of) my "Long Term Resident" visa around with me. And every once in a while I look at it just for the joy of knowing that is really me! I must admit the pictures are getting worse, and I hope just a little of that downhill trend is the photography, not the aging of the subject. This time the photographer would not let me smile. Oh, well. Didn't keep me from getting the visa :-) and yet again :-)

I am still struggling to make a slow return to "normal" health, which could be interpreted multiple ways at this stage of life. By the end of the week I'd shaken off almost all remainders/reminders of my post-holiday cold. I even have leftover medicaments (Czech term) from the Lekarna (trans. "Chemist" -- a pharmacy with only few other items for sale, all having to do with health and well being) just in case whatever-this-is hits again. Since it seems to be making the Prague rounds, I'm hoping the leftovers will be a voodoo spell against the bug entering the flat again! Maybe it will recognize there is no welcome here and leave me alone.

The week also contained some wonderful students "ups" and some disappointing "downs". Lately I've been enjoying the emergence of humor in a second (or third/fourth) language in several of my upper level students. It is my theory that spontaneous humor, not just a repeated joke, is yet one more sign of fluency. You have to know your way around a language and have a feel for the lovely nuances of just the right word to be able to engage in irony, puns, or simply a good turn of a phrase. This week I was gifted with three different examples. Here's one: a student began our session asking if I'd heard about the new airport in NYC. "Well, it was actually only one more runway. . . " And he knew it was acceptable to joke about the USAirways landing in the Hudson because there had been no serious injuries.

The "downs" are cancellations of classes I really enjoy. I've lost eight teaching hours in the last week or so. I anticipated I would be losing hours because of the economy, but that was not the cause of any of them (yet!). Just a "perfect storm" of unusual circumstances which is leaving me with my eyes open for new students and feeling the loss of some whose company I really enjoyed. It will be really interesting and painful to watch events transpire over the next few weeks and months.

This is an especially busy time (not good when what I really want to do is sleep!) preparing exams, writing end-of term narrative reports on each student, and doing a lot of rescheduling to keep up with frequent absences. I must admit it is much more difficult to begin and end the day in such darkness. I enjoy all the "little" things I'm learning, such as what it means to live in a "higher" latitude than any US city below Alaska. It's wonderful to know that the days are getting longer, but it is definitely not noticeable yet. Add all the cloud cover of snow, near-snow, "freezing fog" -- first time I've encountered that forecast, and it's pretty dreary much of the time. Only the weather, that is!

There is "time off for good behavior" this weekend! A French colleague is hosting a "French Toasts" get together at his home. I'm curious how his French toast differs from mine. I know that the first difference is a chestnut spread, brought from home when he visited at the holidays. And the second is that he's sharing his mother's homemade jams, also the accepted topping, with all of us. Add in the international flavors with pot lucking, the accents, and the enjoyment of each other's company, and it will be a great afternoon. Wish you were here to share it with me.

It will soon be my first anniversary! What a wonderful year. It seems silly and redundant to say yet again how happy I am to be here. Life always has its routines; it always takes work to make things happen; there are smiles and new friends and hundreds of stories everywhere. How blessed and contented I am that this is the place where I can do that continuous learning. My wish for you -- that you are having the same "new" year where you are.

The "circle of days" is such an apt expression for my life right now. None of them goes far off course on its own new trajectory -- maybe there will be a little of that when spring arrives. And each of them brings its own particular joy, something to treasure and protect as the circle continues, along with all the ordinary daily tasks which carry them forward. It is -- really -- a wonderful life!





Sunday, October 19, 2008

Memories are Made of This

What a weekend!

-- a never-to-be-forgotten weekend spent in Moravia in the home of one of my former students and his family. The occasion was the town's annual "Open Houses" which, not unintentionally I'm sure, coincides with the grape harvest and its new wine. Burcak (wish I had a Czech keyboard so you could see the actual spelling of the word) is wine which has been fermented only slightly. And it is purchased -- many times over the course of the evening :-) -- in very tall bottles for the evening's festivities.

But first a bit of history. Archaeological
finds (and we visited one of the sites) suggest that primeval people lived in this agriculturally rich area which is protected by rivers and mountains since (or during) the Stone Age. Prior to the 13th century it had become an important trade and religious settlement. In 1257 the king declared it a royal town with the aim of protecting the eastern and southern regions of the Czech Kingdom. Uherske Hradiste (fortress) has had its ups and down over the centuries with the various winners and losers in the ongoing battles for domination of one sort or another. Today it has preserved much of its historic past, either through restoration or maintenance. (If you're interested, you can find the town's website with a simple search. I found it a bit more interesting than the Wikipedia information.) I knew Rostislav was very proud of his town and heritage. Only on this weekend did I begin to realize the richness and depth of that pride.

All the wonderful and historic places in the town -- actually the whole town centre, two old squares, and the environs -- are part of the Open Houses. Churches, monastaries, the old and new (1880s) town halls, restored and renovated grand spaces. Even a lekarna (chemist's -- the Czech version of a pharmacy) which has been in continuous operation since the 1600's -- decorated appropriately! The ceiling is still beautiful with frescoes (early 1700s), the lighting is from antique crystal chandeliers, and the beams are all lovingly cleaned and oiled! It's not your everyday CVS! There were two young Czech women giving the history and high points.

The presumed history and layout of the archaeological site we visited are recorded, and the site itself is open and cared for to be enjoyed by any and all. Clearly it was the choice spot for defense -- what a gorgeous and commanding view of the area. And what seamless integration of past and present -- a young boy running all around the stones getting his homemade kite off the ground -- successfully!

The trip to Uh. Hradiste was a wonderful four hours by bus through continuously changing countryside. There really is a difference between Moravian and Bohemian scenery!

What beautiful terrain. Flat grazing lands, with lovely fat herds of dairy cattle (made me wish for time with John and Sandy or at least to have them with me), enormous round and rectangular bales of hay ready for the winter, then a gradual change to rolling hills, some scattered very tall trees giving way to forests. The hills were tall enough that my ears popped several times! Then lakes, village after village, and always "weekend" cottages tucked away high and low, near water or with a view. I'd actually like to make the trip again on a train, just to see other sights and enjoy a different perspective.

One more point of my ignorance -- I never realized that the famous battle of Austerlitz was fought right here! Yes, the name has been changed -- not sure who is being protected in this one. Of course I came back to read all about it. Just another instance of the importance of this area as a crossroads north/south, east/west.

And near to Austerlitz a large family gathering, the pig already turning on the spit for the afternoon's festivities. Village and family life/roots are still very important here. As a matter of routine, I ask my students about their weekend (a good way to practice conversational English without all the pressure of having "right" answers!). It is not unusual that at least half have visited their families, week in, week out. And many still live quite near where they were born and reared.

On to Uh. Hradiste. What a marvelous family -- definitely the main attraction of the weekend! Rostislav lives in Uh. Hradiste and works in Prague, making the commute each Friday and Monday. He's a very bright man with multiple inventions/solutions to his credit. He's also such a family man -- what good times I had "practicing English" and learning about them during our classes. His wife is both beautiful and gracious, and their daughters are certainly walking in their mother's footsteps. The elder is an accomplished cellist, a finalist this year in the country-wide competition. She played for me -- her touch and musicianship are extraordinary considering her youth! The younger is a bouncy six year old with a smile that seems to go on and on. She's so excited about learning letters/words/places. She and I are in a race to see who learns more words in the other's language by the time we meet again. She is also learning to play the cymbal -- a percussion instrument which I had never seen in person before (and which I learned to love after an evening's entertainment with cymbalovka music and burcak). It was an absolutely marvelous family weekend with all the enjoyment of the beauty and history of another Czech gem!

After a full day of walking, talking, looking, oh-ing and ah-ing, we had family supper and left the girls at home. It was wine festival time. From their lovely home we walked uphill past a small 17th century chapel, across the top of the ridge, then began to wind our way downhill, greeting friends and stopping to taste and listen at wine cellar after wine cellar. There's a definite reason why this is named Vinohradsky Street! The street itself runs along the bottom of a steep hill. The beautiful homes, most with their own wine cellars (some private, some public) on the lowest level, are open and friends are coming and going, celebrating together. Some of the cymbalovka groups (violins, viola, bass, and a cymbal) are outside, others deep in the cellars. What a lovely stroll. It was a very cool, moonlit night, and time really did seem to stand still. At the bottom of the hill we joined at least another 10 friends at a table in a large tent. At first only my student and I used English. He commented later that it was interesting how much English others "remembered" as they enjoyed more burcak! Because of the cold weather, the group which had been playing on an outside stage moved inside -- right next to our table.

What a night! After several hours we walked home. Remember that hill we walked down. Home was up! It is the latest I've been out and about in a very long time! And every minute was memorable.

Sunday morning was family time -- a terrific Czech breakfast, time to talk, to hear instruments, to move slowly into the day. Then Rostislav and Anete and I drove past fields of sunflowers waiting for harvest to the next town to visit a beautiful Benedictine church/monastery/school, then on to another to walk through only a small part of a family estate and its formal gardens. Home for a wonderful dinner, then a rush to the bus station and a thoughful return trip home.

What an incredible weekend. The Pelc family are the center of it all. All the new sites, sounds, history, and impressions they've given me will last and last.

I'm grateful for the opportunity to revisit this golden time by sharing it with you. Thanks for coming with me - - - -


Friday, May 2, 2008

How Do You Measure "Far Away"?

Do you use a ruler? A calendar? A history book? An impression? Is the answer "it depends"? Or is it really a matter of the heart?

I wish I had the "right" answer this morning. At the moment it could be any and all of the above.

I know, because a Google search and Geobytes just told me, that I am 4506 miles and 7251 kilometers away from the city I left three months ago (my how time flies. . . ). It offered to tell me quite a few things about Durham. My silent answer was "no thanks -- already know that." It must have assumed I knew about Prague, since it entered that as my "home" automatically and offered no further introduction to the city. Being curious, I continued to search. This distance thing was turning into fun. Not a big surprise that there's at least one more answer. MapCrow says it is fewer miles and/or kilometers. And both were "as the crow flies." Different crow? That answer came from satellites and GPS and all kinds of technological marvels. And it certainly isn't the one I'm looking for today.

My grandmother was and continues to be a significant defining influence in my life. How I wish I could tell her thank you at this point in my life. What an incredible lady! Homesteaded with her parents in the 1889 Run which opened Indian Territory for settlement, married my grandfather (who made the same Run with his brother) at 15, made the Run which opened the Cherokee strip as a new bride, gave birth to eight children -- the oldest dying in WW I, the youngest flying in WW II, kept the farm running while Grandpa was away working as a carpenter, helping others get settled. I was married on their 65th anniversary -- they cut the second piece of cake at the reception! I can still hear her saying, multiple times, "Oh Anne, the wonders you will see. Things I can't even imagine." Her love of life and her openness to change shaped me. And she doesn't seem very far away. Her influence is so strong, her acceptance of me, warts, mistakes, and all, such a life gift.

I continue to be amazed at the way technology erases the miles (and perhaps increases the agita). So often I comment to myself and others about the difference between Grandma going to the unknown territory and my coming to Prague. I know she had almost no means of contact, and certainly not the regular and easy connections I am afforded. I'm sure she thought her goodbyes to friends and family were final. Mine could be, but I don't know that. And we all seem to live our lives based on the presumption that we will see each other and share stories again.

My last day at Pilgrim UCC did include final goodbyes to two dear friends. Would the parting have been any different if I had known that? Bryant Dunshee and Midge Niblock will remain in my heart always for their grace and their smiles. And I feel very far away at the moment. I cannot share my sadness with anyone else who knew them.

Maybe, if you measure with your heart, "near" is when things are going along fine, memories of good times are strong, email and Skype are working well, and life isn't scattering major question marks along your path. "Far" is when the questions marks are growing, there is too much between the lines in the emails, beloved voices don't sound quite the same, and you are feel so completely powerless. It is very little help or comfort to realize you couldn't change things if you were closer. But it is so difficult not to offer a hug or a listening silence. That's "far"!

And measuring with a calendar and history book? Yesterday was a public holiday here -- Labour Day. I'm old enough to remember when May Day -- May 1 -- brought news pictures of an enormous show of military strength in a Red Square parade. It had nothing to do with the historical rites of spring, welcoming the new season, a traditional May Day celebration. Now everyone knows it is nearly impossible to take a holiday away from people, so you just rename it! And the history book certainly can tell us about these changes. They are very near to those who lived them and to those whose lives are now represented by plaques and memorials. The history is very far away to the late teen/early twenties generation who are the future.

I am, once again, very grateful to be at this place in the world at this point in my life. What wonders! You are so right, Grandma. I just wish I knew more about the distances I've traveled to this point and the ones yet to come.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

The Pleasures of the Ordinary

This has been an extraordinarily ordinary week. As I think about it, it almost seems that it is a week representing my life: common, ordinary, daily routines; putting one foot in front of the other, doing the next thing which needs to be done. Then the routine is graced with so many lovely moments, moments that others either share with me or have in common with me; so much that is good and too much that is bad; so little thoughtful time and so much hustle; and the thread which ties it all together -- the people who come and go, who come and linger, or who come to stay seemingly forever in my heart if not in my presence. It's been one of those weeks.

It's been wet and mostly too cool. Now, in a wonderfully serendipitous moment, I'm prepared for the weather. Several of us were in a conversation about the lack of a wet weather and/or in between weather coat. I was still using the winter coat I brought with me. Fortunately (for me) the weather had cooperated -- stayed much cooler than usual. The coat conversation had two primary topics -- where to find one (corner vendors, second hand shops, etc.) and how much we'd have to pay. As we parted there were comments about waiting for the next week and/or making do. My last words before the trams arrived were "Well, I could get it today if it were under 100 Kc." Now, who'd ever think . . . Arrived in my neighborhood and noticed as soon as I got off the tram a little sign I'd never seen before: Second Hand, 30m. Thirty meters was less than half-way up the block, so I quickly made a left turn, discovered that I'd arrived 15 minutes before closing time, and went straight for a coat rack. AND walked out five minutes later with a really nice London-Fog type coat (no liner) for only 80 Kc. How about that!! What a lovely moment.

The week seems to be a blur of rushing and waiting, rushing and waiting. It seems that each time there was a gem of a person, a place, or an idea, I ended up moving on to another mental place. Here are several which have remained with me --

A brief conversation with a very bright young man about how we can maintain a balance between wanting government agencies to "help" with social problems without abdicating any personal responsibility and concern for those who clearly cannot care properly for themselves.

Finding an article in Lifestyles magazine, Czech edition, about Vaclav Havel and Forum 2000. Here's the setting -- I'm once again at my wonderful laundromat. I've already had a fruitless search for some reading I could think about, perhaps even Ann Lamott or Dawna Markova style. I really wanted something to read or I never would have selected something that slick. O.K. -- judge a book (magazine) by its cover! That's what took me inside. There was a lengthy article about the Forum 2000 conference in 2007. I don't remember hearing about Forum 2000 -- the first meeting was in Prague in 1997. The foundation focuses on key issues facing civilization. You may be sure I'll keep up with it in the future. This particular article combines quotes from ten years ago with the problems still facing us, all of us, today. From Havel then: "It is my deep conviction that the only option is for something to change in the sphere of the spirit, in the sphere of human conscience." From those in a business symposium now: "Already dozens of companies with massive economic and political power are more influential than many governments. Business support limited to charity and sport may no longer be enough." This "lucky find" will stick with me for a long time!

Getting a "real" opportunity for a hair cut! HOORAY! Three times now I've struck out. Speaking English is a big drawback. At last a friend of a friend of a friend. . . You know the way these things happen. And would you believe the salon is right in my new neighborhood. I went to the salon with the two (one who speaks only English, one who speaks English and Czech) to meet Vladka, the hair stylist who speaks only Czech. It was pretty scary to stand by for a long conversation about what can be done with my hair and how I'll look much younger (yeah, right) when all I wanted was more of the same. Well, that wish was at least six weeks ago. Now I'm ready for anything! Talk about feeling helpless! Of course I'll take my Anglicky-Czech dictionary -- it's always with me. I just don't believe I can thumb the pages fast enough to keep up with the pace. We'll see what happens this week.

It's time to get ready for the surprises and pleasure of another week. Getting ready is my job. Sending the surprises I'll leave to the universe! I'll just keep on with the "one foot in front of the other" routine, watching and waiting for each next moment. I'm wishing wonderful surprises for you also.

Sunday, March 9, 2008

A Long Night's Walk

Saturday in Prague. And once again a surprise email from a colleague: We're going to the celebration tonight. Meet at 5:30 at the tram stop if you want to come along.

There were a couple things about the situation I knew I could depend on. The first was that I definitely could find my way to and from this tram stop. The second was that these colleagues come up with some great ideas and are great company. Seemed to me that made it an obvious choice, especially since the day had been a bummer. (I'd "lost" a room to rent because I'm not an EU citizen -- a situation not likely to change any time soon!)

Two poor maps -- one with no street names and only driving directions -- and an article from the paper (in English, thank goodness!) got us well on our way - - - - in the wrong direction! Getting there can be part of the fun when you're with the right people. Fortunately, even though their exploration styles are totally different, these were the right people. Three long waits in a pretty brisk wind -- it is definitely still winter here -- and two crowded trams later, we were finally near our destination.

Remember the truism that a woman will ask for directions? Several interesting things happen when there are three women! One learns that there is a special music event every night at 8 at the Municipal House. This is an absolutely gorgeous Art Noveau building with the largest concert hall in Prague (as well as a stunning restaurant). It is also where Czechoslovakia was declared independent in 1918 and, coincidentally, a sight I get to admire twice a week going to and coming from a class, each time with slightly different light showing off the incredible green and gold. So -- first interesting thing learned while getting directions is where to enjoy other great evenings. Another learns that we'll reach our destination (the old fruit market) by going through the Powder Tower (built in 1475 on the site of an 11th century gate, and until 1836 beginning of the route of the Bohemian kings on their way to be crowned at the Castle). Then we need to walk a bit (no surprise there!), turn left, walk some more, and then those infamous and ominous words: "You can't miss it!" Fortunately the third woman (me) was playing eavesdropper, because she'd already heard "I'm not good with directions" from the second woman.

Particularly in the area leading to Old Town Square (this is called The Royal Mile) there is something interesting, or historic, or wonderful, or beautiful, or all of these to see every few steps. The first entry in a Google search for Old Town Square Prague states that if you go there, you'll step back in time 600 or 700 years. That's just what we had come to do! We had come to attend a celebration of an historical event 666 years ago. We were there! Staromestske Namesti -- Old Town Square.

First the fruit market. Hard to miss -- once we came to the right area. Just behind the Estates Theater. I must admit this is the first time in all my walks in this area that I'd been at the back of the Theater. And the back is nearly as beautiful as the front. It was built privately in the early 1780s by a Count and inscribed "To the Native Land and the Muses". When it was joined with the National Theatre, their motto -- The Nation Unto Itself -- was fittingly added. And yes, this is the place where Mozart himself conducted the premiere of Don Giovanni. At this point we knew all we had to do was follow our ears -- right to the stage where a group of musicians in period costumes were performing. The music was period, pleasant, and inviting. Soon, however, we just had to move on and investigate other possibilities.

Down narrow and crooked walkways, always watching for a stray cobblestone that could cause a stumble (sounds a bit like life, to me!), we gazed and gaped our way right into the middle of the Square and the Easter Festival. Booth after booth after booth selling sausages, chocolate, beer, Prague souvenirs, beautifully decorated Czech Easter eggs, a traditional sweet (long ribbons of dough wrapped around a round metal pole and roasted then sugared), nearly anything a vendor thought someone would buy. And more music. In an area totally decorated with colored eggs, festive ribbons, and fabric flowers, a stage had been erected, complete with 21st century lighting and sound system. It was graced with an ensemble of dancers providing a marvelous programme of folk dances. Who could possibly walk away from that?!

And yet, after more than a half hour, we managed to move along, back to the Estates, just in time for a medieval festival, commenorating the 666 years ago. There on the left of the stage was the court, complete with jester. In the middle, entertainment -- fire jugglers, dancers. And on the right, the troubadors. There was even a smattering of translation for those of us not yet initiated! What a show. At the end, the noble and knights mounted horses and clip-clopped their way down the cobblestones while their ladies waved farewell. All in keeping with tradition, it is duly noted!

Who could stop walking at this time? Surely not us. We continued to turn corners, stop here and there to check out good books or test the coffee, or just watch others enjoying themselves.

The night ended earlier for me than it did for the others. Moving toward home seemed more wise than moving onward. I found my way, still walking, to a tram stop much nearer home, one connection less, and at least 30 minutes faster. And yes, it was a bit embarrassing to see how easy it would have been to get there if only we'd known where we were going. (That sounds a bit like life also, doesn't it!)

One more Prague gift. What a night. Shortly after I reached my warm room, the fireworks began. This time I knew the reason. And I could join in celebrating that Prague was established, that it has come through all its twists and turns to this era, that for a little space it can be "mine", and I am blessed to enjoy it with friends.