Or Museum Night -- and what a night it was. That was the "label", alternating between Czech and English, on an enormous fleet of buses running from 7 p.m.till 1 p.m. providing free transportation to over 25 cultural institutions with 51 sites, each with no admission fee during this special event. There were nine different lines/routes, each with its own attraction(s) carefully described in Czech and English in the great little guide book, running continuously to carry us ("human sardines" would be the term) to the various locations. This was the 5th annual Prague Museum Night, an event copied from similar events in other leading European cities. Over 170,000 people attended last year, and I think, from the crush of the crowds, that each of them brought two or three friends this year!
I met with five colleagues from StJ at the metro stop by Old Town Square. Their intention was to visit the nearby Jewish Museum first. Although I've been there a couple times, each visit was before I'd read Madeline Albright's moving account of finding her family listed in this place of sorrow in her book, Madam Secretary. I wanted to take that image with me on this visit. I'm glad I didn't air my thought about whether or not the Sabbath might have some influence on this. Yes, it did. The JM didn't open till 10:30 p.m. (That's an hour after it got dark here!) Who knows how things would have turned out had they known that.
As a substitute first event the Zbraslav Chateau was selected. It seemed like a wise choice even before I knew the details. So many of the sites are near the center with relatively easy access. I'm not sure when, or even if, I would have made this little trip. There are so many places to go and things to see that I might not have noticed it in the long list of possibilities. Free admission, free direct transportation -- sounded like a winner to me! We (and way too many other people) boarded Line 6 for the 25-30 minute trip along the Vlatava then the Berounka rivers to the picturesque town of Zbraslav.
The village is centered around a not-square square (namesti -- and few of the "squares" I've seen have the shape of a New England town square!) with several shops, a few restaurants/cafes, a library, and even a couple penzions and a small theatre. It seems like a lovely place to "come home to," and given the housing market in Prague, I'm pretty certain this would be one of the commuter villages.
Approaching the village, we were treated to an excellent view of the Chateau. Someone describes it as "an impressive pile dating from 1268." It's now home (with lots of interesting side stories of its journey to this point) to a part of the National Gallery and currently is keeper of its permanent exhibition of Asian art. Two complementary non-art attractions are a lovely long hall lined on both sides with exquisite bonsai and a Japanese tearoom.
Walking through the entrance gate onto the beautiful grounds dotted with sculptures of many centuries and styles seemed like an entrance into another time and place. All the greenery was rich and lush, even with bus loads of people it was quiet and inviting, and each step seemed to move me further into the past.
The collection is impressive and beautifully displayed. It covers many centuries -- at least the early 12th to the present, many art forms, and includes items from Japan to Turkey. I must admit Asian art as a whole is not my favorite. That's probably a secondary reason I would have missed this lovely place when planning some time out. This collection is exquisite, inviting one to linger rather than move along. What a memorable evening.
The return trip was even more crowded, though that hardly seemed possible. The group was on its way to other viewing sites. Me? I wanted to listen. Concerts and recitals of every style everywhere. In the end, however, I called it quits. Long day, long night. Hours of walking/standing/waiting with a busy week ahead made the final decision. I traveled most of the way to the Dvorak Museum for its hour-long concert, then just couldn't gather the energy to walk the final four blocks, especially with the thought of lots more walking much later. Yes, it would have been a nice ending to the day. But Zbraslav wove its own spell, and it lingers still. Perhaps my body knew better than my brain!
Showing posts with label museums. Show all posts
Showing posts with label museums. Show all posts
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Making Choices
Just amazing what a simple yes or no, one question raised or left unspoken, taking the lead or following can do to change a plan. My plan for Saturday was to take it easy, work on some preparations for classes, and generally have a low-key day. My plan for Sunday was to enjoy a couple hours at the Brevnov Monastery with a few colleagues I know and some of their circle of friends.
Let's talk about Saturday's choices first. One quick "yes" turned it all around. No taking it easy, no prep for me! Mid-afternoon found me waiting at a metro escalator, supposedly to join two others to see a documentary movie about Vaclav Havel. That changed when I agreed with Barb, the first to arrive, that it would be much better to view the movie at the beautiful old theatre in a shopping center built by Havel's grandfather. The family connection and a "real" setting made sense to me. Next came agreement to go back the way she'd come to meet two of her Aussie friends she'd seen thru' a big window in a cafe. Off we trooped, scooted chairs up to a tiny table, and had a marvelous time broadening the circle of friends, learning about teaching in other countries and other great life experiences. After some time and many words we agreed to part ways and get on with the remainder of plans for the evening. That lasted just as long as it took us to walk around opposite sides of the block and meet up again. Natural choice to have dinner together at the hospada (pub with good, usually inexpensive food) that was their plan. Since some supper somewhere along the way had been in the original plan for us also, we're on track here. Great food and more good conversation.
The next good choice was to continue the evening together as we got on with our original plan to visit the Globe bookstore. Our conversation turned to old movies as we walked over the cobblestones thru' narrow streets in a old part of town, an intriguing mixture of fascinating buildings all around us
The Globe is an incredible place. The front section is the bookstore -- "Please purchase books before sitting at the table" -- where all titles are selected individually by the owner. What an incredible selection! As we entered, Anne (another colleague) asked the "kid" behind the counter if he could answer a movie question which was stumping us. He couldn't, but a voice from the second level joined the conversation, then the person joined us. It was the owner, in for the weekend from Moscow.
Michael is a bright, young Chicagoan, obviously with a gift for making money, who currently lives in Moscow and manages two hedge funds. One of his favorite places when he lived in Prague 5-6 years ago was the Globe. When it fell on very hard times and was being closed a little over a year ago, he bought it and is still restoring it. He tries to visit every month, and our choices put us there at just the right moment. First we stayed in the front, talking books, checking out titles, all the good reasons one goes to bookstores. But then there's the back section. Towering high ceilings, walls painted a gorgeous deep red to showcase fantastic modern original art, a singer who sounded a lot like Paul Simon, an eclectic mix of styles and ages. What more could you want?
There is more. You see, the Aussie are going home via Moscow (a place where I briefly considered teaching). And Michael loved talking about the city. What it's like, where to go, what to see, how much it is misrepresented. Interesting to hear his thoughts on the government, possibilities for the future. After a while he got on with business and we continued talking about anything and everything. What a night! Back to the cobblestones, a long walk to the tram, and a quiet ride home, reliving some wonderful choices.
And that is only Saturday! A few days earlier I'd made another choice -- join colleagues from St. J. and elsewhere for a visit to the Brevnov Monastery.
Sunday followed the plan. Only I had no idea how it would expand. The day could not have been more beautiful, bright sunshine, blue sky, just a hint of spring with little buds thinking about popping out. Our guide was an intern studying for her guide certification, whatever that takes, who is a student of one on the colleagues. (This time the circle of friends expanded to 15.) The Brevnov is a Benedictine monastery, begun in 993, just up the hill from the Castle! And yes, we saw the archeological excavation under the present Basilica of the original church. Can you imagine the struggle, turmoil, pain and peace that ground has seen. Our guide took us walking and climbing -- what else! -- through the grounds, orchards, old mill, on and on with wonderful commentary. Then we entered the monastery, where a young monk became our guide. Oh my, the stories, frescoes, worn steps and corridors, history both recent and long ago, pictures of the renovations after the Communist era, photos of the two monks who returned from prison to die in "their home". Even heard from a distance an organist rehearsing on the newly restored instrument for a recording tonight. What an incredible place with an insider's view.
As you may know, Benedictine monks have to raise their own financial support. This group does so thru' its hotel and restaurant. And our reservations were for 2:30. The restaurant is rustic, charming, and serves marvelous food. I'm hoping to return next Sunday for lunch, just before the free organ concert!
Brevnov is "up the hill" from the Castle. The ride back led to a stop in the "New Town" and a coffee shop very near the Museum of Music. We (the group was now down to eight) even took time to visit another well-known Baroque church on the way. (They certainly are fancy!) When I finally returned, this had become an eight hour day! And what a great one it is.
I can hardly wait to see where the next choice will lead me.
Let's talk about Saturday's choices first. One quick "yes" turned it all around. No taking it easy, no prep for me! Mid-afternoon found me waiting at a metro escalator, supposedly to join two others to see a documentary movie about Vaclav Havel. That changed when I agreed with Barb, the first to arrive, that it would be much better to view the movie at the beautiful old theatre in a shopping center built by Havel's grandfather. The family connection and a "real" setting made sense to me. Next came agreement to go back the way she'd come to meet two of her Aussie friends she'd seen thru' a big window in a cafe. Off we trooped, scooted chairs up to a tiny table, and had a marvelous time broadening the circle of friends, learning about teaching in other countries and other great life experiences. After some time and many words we agreed to part ways and get on with the remainder of plans for the evening. That lasted just as long as it took us to walk around opposite sides of the block and meet up again. Natural choice to have dinner together at the hospada (pub with good, usually inexpensive food) that was their plan. Since some supper somewhere along the way had been in the original plan for us also, we're on track here. Great food and more good conversation.
The next good choice was to continue the evening together as we got on with our original plan to visit the Globe bookstore. Our conversation turned to old movies as we walked over the cobblestones thru' narrow streets in a old part of town, an intriguing mixture of fascinating buildings all around us
The Globe is an incredible place. The front section is the bookstore -- "Please purchase books before sitting at the table" -- where all titles are selected individually by the owner. What an incredible selection! As we entered, Anne (another colleague) asked the "kid" behind the counter if he could answer a movie question which was stumping us. He couldn't, but a voice from the second level joined the conversation, then the person joined us. It was the owner, in for the weekend from Moscow.
Michael is a bright, young Chicagoan, obviously with a gift for making money, who currently lives in Moscow and manages two hedge funds. One of his favorite places when he lived in Prague 5-6 years ago was the Globe. When it fell on very hard times and was being closed a little over a year ago, he bought it and is still restoring it. He tries to visit every month, and our choices put us there at just the right moment. First we stayed in the front, talking books, checking out titles, all the good reasons one goes to bookstores. But then there's the back section. Towering high ceilings, walls painted a gorgeous deep red to showcase fantastic modern original art, a singer who sounded a lot like Paul Simon, an eclectic mix of styles and ages. What more could you want?
There is more. You see, the Aussie are going home via Moscow (a place where I briefly considered teaching). And Michael loved talking about the city. What it's like, where to go, what to see, how much it is misrepresented. Interesting to hear his thoughts on the government, possibilities for the future. After a while he got on with business and we continued talking about anything and everything. What a night! Back to the cobblestones, a long walk to the tram, and a quiet ride home, reliving some wonderful choices.
And that is only Saturday! A few days earlier I'd made another choice -- join colleagues from St. J. and elsewhere for a visit to the Brevnov Monastery.
Sunday followed the plan. Only I had no idea how it would expand. The day could not have been more beautiful, bright sunshine, blue sky, just a hint of spring with little buds thinking about popping out. Our guide was an intern studying for her guide certification, whatever that takes, who is a student of one on the colleagues. (This time the circle of friends expanded to 15.) The Brevnov is a Benedictine monastery, begun in 993, just up the hill from the Castle! And yes, we saw the archeological excavation under the present Basilica of the original church. Can you imagine the struggle, turmoil, pain and peace that ground has seen. Our guide took us walking and climbing -- what else! -- through the grounds, orchards, old mill, on and on with wonderful commentary. Then we entered the monastery, where a young monk became our guide. Oh my, the stories, frescoes, worn steps and corridors, history both recent and long ago, pictures of the renovations after the Communist era, photos of the two monks who returned from prison to die in "their home". Even heard from a distance an organist rehearsing on the newly restored instrument for a recording tonight. What an incredible place with an insider's view.
As you may know, Benedictine monks have to raise their own financial support. This group does so thru' its hotel and restaurant. And our reservations were for 2:30. The restaurant is rustic, charming, and serves marvelous food. I'm hoping to return next Sunday for lunch, just before the free organ concert!
Brevnov is "up the hill" from the Castle. The ride back led to a stop in the "New Town" and a coffee shop very near the Museum of Music. We (the group was now down to eight) even took time to visit another well-known Baroque church on the way. (They certainly are fancy!) When I finally returned, this had become an eight hour day! And what a great one it is.
I can hardly wait to see where the next choice will lead me.
Monday, February 18, 2008
76 Trombones
Well, maybe not, but certainly hundreds of instruments.
After spending weekend time getting things in order, preparing for the new week, and avoiding a really cold day, I took advantage of a lesson cancellation today to keep a promise to myself: I will visit the Museum of Music. One side note -- I tried earlier and simply could not make enough correct turns to find it. I knew from my original accidental discovery that it would be worth whatever effort another attempt required.
The Museum's new home is a very old space. It was originally the Church of St. Magdalene in the Lesser Town (same side of the river, just down the hill from The Castle, side by side by side with neighbors built in the same century -- the 17th!). It belonged to a Dominican Monastery which was closed in 1783 -- we're talking way over 100 years as a church before spending time as a post office, a police barracks, and an archive, among other things. There behind an enormous, heavy, dark old door which could be an entrance to any one of hundreds of Prague buildings is a clean 20th century renovation. Just through the swish of an electric-eye door is an enormous four-story hall with clean lines and an invitation to whisper or yell -- no middle choice there. And then, just at the next turn of a corner there are little nooks, small details which absolutely breathe church/sacred music/whispering cassocks. To stand at the first-floor railing overlooking what once must have been the "sanctuary" and nearly break a vertebrae looking up -- what an incredible view. Couldn't help but wonder what those windows must have seen, those walls must have heard.
All this is all before the instruments enter the scene. Yes, I saw Mozart's piano (or at least one of them), a krumhorn and other instruments (which were until now only organ stops/registration for me), 16 incredible flutes (teeny to huge) in only one of the display cases, two (not just one) glass harmoniums, square pianos, a giraffe piano, quarter-tone pianos, first attempts which became music makers we all recognize and those which left the scene nearly as early as they joined it. Oh my oh my. Walk and walk and walk, stop/look/listen -- there are marvelous listening posts nearly everywhere, and, more than anything, feel like such a small drop of water in the marvelous river of musical history.
About those trombones -- they and many, many other brass, woodwind, few-stringed and multiple-stringed instruments are there. And you should see the harps -- a whole room of them. By the way, the cases for some of the pianos simply defy description. Incredible woodworking!
What a way to start a week! And as I closed the door behind me I renewed my promise to return.
After spending weekend time getting things in order, preparing for the new week, and avoiding a really cold day, I took advantage of a lesson cancellation today to keep a promise to myself: I will visit the Museum of Music. One side note -- I tried earlier and simply could not make enough correct turns to find it. I knew from my original accidental discovery that it would be worth whatever effort another attempt required.
The Museum's new home is a very old space. It was originally the Church of St. Magdalene in the Lesser Town (same side of the river, just down the hill from The Castle, side by side by side with neighbors built in the same century -- the 17th!). It belonged to a Dominican Monastery which was closed in 1783 -- we're talking way over 100 years as a church before spending time as a post office, a police barracks, and an archive, among other things. There behind an enormous, heavy, dark old door which could be an entrance to any one of hundreds of Prague buildings is a clean 20th century renovation. Just through the swish of an electric-eye door is an enormous four-story hall with clean lines and an invitation to whisper or yell -- no middle choice there. And then, just at the next turn of a corner there are little nooks, small details which absolutely breathe church/sacred music/whispering cassocks. To stand at the first-floor railing overlooking what once must have been the "sanctuary" and nearly break a vertebrae looking up -- what an incredible view. Couldn't help but wonder what those windows must have seen, those walls must have heard.
All this is all before the instruments enter the scene. Yes, I saw Mozart's piano (or at least one of them), a krumhorn and other instruments (which were until now only organ stops/registration for me), 16 incredible flutes (teeny to huge) in only one of the display cases, two (not just one) glass harmoniums, square pianos, a giraffe piano, quarter-tone pianos, first attempts which became music makers we all recognize and those which left the scene nearly as early as they joined it. Oh my oh my. Walk and walk and walk, stop/look/listen -- there are marvelous listening posts nearly everywhere, and, more than anything, feel like such a small drop of water in the marvelous river of musical history.
About those trombones -- they and many, many other brass, woodwind, few-stringed and multiple-stringed instruments are there. And you should see the harps -- a whole room of them. By the way, the cases for some of the pianos simply defy description. Incredible woodworking!
What a way to start a week! And as I closed the door behind me I renewed my promise to return.
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