we're on a stroll through history -- that's really just a beautiful Sunday afternoon ride and walk from my neighborhood to Stare Mesto (Old Town Square) and back. I still cannot become used to (nor do I ever want to take for granted) walking past buildings whose guardian statues have been looking down through generations of change. Or coming upon a wall or street plaque commemorating someone whose life is scarcely noticed now but who made an important sacrifice or contribution in another generation or century. Or seeing yet another little gem of a building, all "dressed up" with its colors and decorations, just quietly maintaining its own space. And I love watching others enjoy the surroundings. I must admit that sometimes I'd love to say "look up, you just missed something incredibly beautiful".
Today almost brought me to Strahov Monastery for several reasons. The first is that I've never been there. And I know it is a "must see." It has been a monastery since 1143; Mozart "improvised on its organ in 1787"; there's an incredible collection of art and literature maintained through the fires, sieges, and religious changes. AND it has its own brewery (and label) in operation with one short break since the 12th century with a good, inexpensive pub/restaurant. All good reasons to make the trip.
But not today. Today had to be an outside day after yet another string of cold wet days. The obvious choice was Old Town Square, yet again (and again and again), also for several reasons. One was the need of new reading material, and there's a good little bookstore tucked away with lots of used English language books. Another was curiosity. Every visit has something new to watch/hear/learn.
To digress just a bit - - - Friday evening I went to a congratulations-on-your-new-job for a young Czech colleague. She's leaving teaching for the newspaper world, and about 30 folks gathered at a great pub on the edge of Old Town to wish her well. I must say that I'm quite happy about my growing ability to find my way around on the trams. And suddenly I realized how I could make a connection I've never made before to get there and back easily. Now to return to today - - -
Friday evening's tram trip was such an easy connection I decided to try it again today and take time to enjoy the surroundings. The first thing I wanted to know was who/why/what merited the enormous monument in the middle of a busy square and tram junction. This is Palackeho namesti (square) and a man sits larger than life on a giant pedestal with all sorts of beings flying and flitting around him (and I'm not referring to the pigeons!) That man is Frantisek Palacky, who spent more than 46 years of his life writing a history of the Czech people. I'd say that rates a monument! Although he'd promised his father he'd become a priest -- the family was protestant in an area that was nearly all Catholic -- he became a historian, active in the mid-19th century transitions in the Hapsburg/German empires, ultimately keeping the post of Historian of the Bohemian Estates right up until his death only a few months after he finished the Czech translation of his history. There's a lot more -- you can search the internet if you're interested. I won't go on further.
Next to the square is a large sunken garden -- it looks as though it is only a matter of weeks until the rose bushes bloom, and there are many rows of them. I would imagine I'll have to arrive early to get a seat on some of the benches. While enjoying the roses, I can also enjoy the spires of Emmaus Monastery. It was founded by Charles IV, the most recent version a baroque church with all the usual ornamentation except for its very modern twin spires which were added after a stray bomb destroyed the originals during WW II. Talk about contrasts!
All this, and I'm only now on my second tram. That trip gives me yet another view of the Castle and Cathedral, the Vlatava crowded with small boats, Charles Bridge, the oldest part of Charles University, and finally the walk into Old Town.
Items of note:
-- the concert at St. Nicholas Church today is a organ and brass ensemble playing Bach, Widor, and Orff. How's that for a mix!
-- the horse drawn carriage rides are back for a tour of Old Town. They're all spiffed up for the tourists with their fancy decorations.
-- there's jazz on the square again. This time a really good five-piece group doing Dixieland and other familiar tunes. The bass player was somewhere in his 30s, the rest won't see 65 again!
-- And new to me -- a three-wheeled conveyance which carries two tourists at a time on either a 20 or 60 minute ride. And some muscled young men were pedaling away. It appeared to be a very tight fit! And talk about hard work!
Things I need to buy: sunglasses and a hat! It was really warm, and this isn't summer yet. But what fun. What a treat.
The feet and heat combined to say "enough now -- head for home" and I listened. What a great afternoon. Did the usual weekly tasks and now it's time to get ready for the new week. More weeks, more adventures, more things to learn and enjoy. I am so blessed!
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