Sunday, March 14, 2010

Looking Ahead

In a city so full of history it is easy to have a backward view much of the time. And yes, I do that. I remain fascinated by the architecture, my personal musings about what life must have been at different periods, curiosity about how and when buildings and their use changed, thoughts about the ease with which I/we dismiss the difficult life choices of others, etc., etc., etc. It keeps me continually occupied – and reading.

Now, however, a forward view just has to move front and center. You see, I’ve got to do something to get out of the gloom and gray! We still have snow, admittedly not full storms as we’ve had, in the forecast and the next four days have snowdrops falling out of huge clouds. And most of the time when there isn’t snow, there also isn’t any sun to relieve the monotony. Oh drat!

Do I love Prague any less? You may be certain I do not! She is like a fascinating person who reveals her many moods and depth of wisdom only a little at a time. And yes, I want to continue to learn about her past and participate in her future, to continue to explore the hidden places I often overlook when moving straight forward through a day.

I’m beginning my own “tour” plan, thanks to one of the StJ staff members I’ve gotten to know and admire. She was telling me about her Tour ‘d Prague, weekly trips made randomly to different neighborhoods with her trusty guide book (Czech, darn it) telling all about the various houses and neighborhoods. So I’ve adopted her idea, and as soon as the weather takes a turn for the better, a friend and I are going to set up our own routine. Yesterday I went on a shopping trip (very unusual for me) to a large bookstore right on Václavské Náměstí, the historic square (really a long boulevard) in the center of town. My first purchase (thanks to a lovely C’mas gift from Michael) was a beautiful, full color book about the house markings -- frescoes, statues, wooden signs, etc. -- of historic Prague. There are only a few words on each page, plus an outline map of the location, and it is grouped by neighborhoods. It’ll keep us going till we find other books. Fortunately it is not "coffee table" size even though it is "coffee table" beauty.

And speaking of books, my latest “super read” is For the Love of Prague by Gene Deitch, an American living here nonstop since 1959 – can you believe it -- and very happily married to a Czech. It's really great, if you’re interested in a down-to-earth, first-person account of life from then till now. Mine was the fifth edition, so he's been constantly updating. He is, by the way, an Oscar winning animator who’s worked with Maurice Sendak et al. Very readable and very informative.

So yes, there’s a lot to look forward to. I still have a great teaching schedule, though it has been slower lately (and that’s a good thing) because of cancellations for vacations, heavy work schedules and travel, etc. But I continue to have really super students and look forward to each day.

And I’ve now learned the reason for my multiple xrays, CT scan, bronchoscopy, and doctor’s visits. It turns out I (my body, my lungs, my system, some part of me) had an allergic reaction in my lungs to the pneumonia bacteria. That’s a new one for my medical storehouse! It’s what my “superdoc” saw on all the pictures that he couldn’t identify – and wouldn’t quit until he could! It’s also the reason it’s taking so much longer for me to bounce back (besides age, of course). I continue to be so grateful for the good medical care here. And I continue to get my energy back slowly, noticing little differences each day. The same ol’ “me” – one more thing to look forward to.

Once again I feel so blessed to be living this new chapter of my life. Who would have thought this would be what I could look forward to. Not I. And a backward glance tells me I need to keep watching out for and paying attention to opportunities, big and small. I can see so many wonderful events that prepared me to this time which were totally unappreciated at the time.

I hope your forward look is in place, getting ready for spring, longer days, more sunshine, and new opportunities!

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Happy Anniversary to Me

Two years and counting! And what a wonderful time it has been. It feels as though I am in a “perfect middle”, a sort of wonderland between what has been and what will be. It’s difficult to remember all the feelings – excitement, exhaustion, sadness, anticipation, curiosity, (and that’s only the beginning of the list) – of that long ago plane ride. It’s easy to remember the first few days – the people who helped things move forward, the sense of belonging, and most of all, the rightness of moving into a new chapter. It would have been impossible to imagine all the wonders of these past two years.

Some of my musings are about places which have become my favorites: Brevnov Monastery, the Dvorak Museum, Uherske Hradiste (the lovely Moravian town with its annual festival and dear friends), several cozy restaurants, the Zoo, the peace of centuries old sanctuaries, the tram rides past decades and centuries of buildings both graceful and graceless. More often I think of friends, colleagues, and students, the “new” people whose lives have become so important in mine and the seamless way they blend in with those who continue to remain ever present in my thoughts if not my current geography.

It’s the to-do-to-go list which seems to claim a lot of my attention, however. Perhaps it’s the snow and cold, perhaps it’s just a general January routine, or most probably it’s the realization that this isn’t a suspension of some sort – time really is moving along. I’m keeping a real list now, not a mental one, of sunny-day expeditions and rainy-day retreats, places to visit when I have one day free vs. places to go when I have an extra day off. What is difficult is that they all seem to be equally important, none seems optional. Oh my, just have to get at it!

So here I am at the two-year mark, living in the past, the present, and the future all at the same time, and loving every minute of it, whether it's new and exciting or ordinary and frustrating. They are all mine, and there's nowhere else I'd rather be or nothing else I'd rather be doing.

The best thing now, however, is my return to health. It is both amazing and wonderful to see little bits of improvement each day. I see my “super specialist” again Friday for new x-rays. Probably the best description of my feeling now is “cautious optimism”. I know I’m getting better; I just don’t know what my lungs look like.

I begin teaching part time Monday. Am I ready? Probably not as ready as I think I am. And I know I will have to watch the energy level carefully. I’ve been warned about overdoing, and I’m paying attention. A trip to StJ yesterday taught me how quickly I can tire. Again I am so blessed. And so very grateful.

And yes, I want to keep counting these anniversaries, creating new memories, enjoying new friends, and sharing it all with you. It is a new experience to consider it all from this healing cocoon. Now I must get on with doing it! A new year with all its possibilities, just waiting to be lived. . . .

Have a wonderful February – spring is coming!

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Once again - - -

- - - the sound of silence. Written, that is. And this time I’m not as “ok” as I’d like to be. I’ve spent the last two weeks abed, quite sick with pneumonia. Surprised me! I will say that during the first (really awful) week, the “p” word never entered my mind. Now I know the fever/ chills were a symptom; I just didn’t know then. Moral of that story – don’t wait for the obvious!

To make a long story short, last Sunday – in a really bad snowstorm which left things snarled for the next 3 days! – I got myself to the hospital (I’ll explain that later) where it seems I surprised even my doc. Another “once again” – I’ve been so fortunate with docs and treatment here. Older man with really good English, consulting in three fields, just happened to have the Sunday duty. After x-rays (roentgen) and a quick blood test, he confirmed I was really sick. Yup. Problem: no room in the inn. He strongly suggested the hospital next door (where I had my surgery), but since he left the door pretty widely ajar for me to come home, I of course did that. I'm glad I did, but it was a quite miserable week, just doing what he said to do and sleepingsleepingsleeping.

I was a little improved Friday, but yesterday seemed to be a turning point. Frankly, I miss some of the lovely hallucinations, both visual and musical! What a pity I had to get this old to “enjoy” those sensations.

I’ll taxi myself back out there today – once again it’s snowing – and get current readings. He prescribed only one week’s meds, which might be changed today, depending on progress. The new “twist” on the usual drugs: he also asked me to use an herbal tea just for pneumonia. Czechs are quite conversant with and reliant on herbal supplements; they are part of the regular “pharmacy” stock and are recommended in response to over-the-counter questions. And work!

I’m taking a o'nite bag with me – he said he might want me to stay this week. My brain wasn’t working – didn’t even occur to me until Saturday that I’d have received IV antibiotics there. Duh. The story till now: I’m doing fine, getting better, and still housebound!

My flatmate has been wonderful. Who knew he’d have three “home health aid” stints! My appreciation is unlimited! Besides being an all-round gentleman, he’s such an interesting person and great conversationalist. Once again – I’m blessed. And yes, I’m missing all my classes, right at exam time.

If you’re not interested in a few brief differences in Czech and US medical systems as I’ve experienced them, then skip to the end. I’m getting better and will be fine – and will write more soon.

If you are interested, here’s a rather disjointed personal commentary about how it works here. Of course I’ve been following some of the health care debates/concerns in both countries, of course I have very strong biases about it, and I’ve also been listening to quite a few of my students on the topic. As with every system, this one has its detractors and personal stories of dissatisfaction and problems. On the whole, I find it pretty workable and I’ve been very gratified with “all” my interactions.

First, yes I am insured. I have to have insurance to get a visa. (I’d rather not be using it, thank you very much!) I cannot have Czech insurance – it’s only for Czechs; Mine is from some large EU company that StJ works with/directs us to. Czechs usually pay 30 crowns ($1.66, today’s rate) to see a doctor. I pay everything upfront at a different rate, and then if the insurance allows it, I’m reimbursed. I also have a quite different charge for prescriptions than Czechs.

Very often, though not always, doctors are gathered at a “poliklinika” (pretty obvious translation), different offices, most specialties represented it seems. I have a “GP” (ok-but-not-good English) as my basic doc, renews prescriptions, etc. They’re in the offices M-F. On weekends you go to a hospital (Czechs may know about places with weekend hours that I just haven't looked for).

When I went out last Sunday (also when I was injured) I was in seen in “ambulance”, which is the equivalent, it seems, of US non-trauma emergency and has nothing to do with a mode of transportation! It’s (skeleton) staffed 24/7, each in their own department. I’m sure there are places which are like US ER setups – emergency vehicles, life-threatening situations, etc. – but I’ve only been on the “right” side of those doors, thank goodness. When I leaned on the counter and said “I’m sick”, I was sent to internal medicine. They make all the rest of the choices, sending me to x-ray, doing their own blood work. (Last time it was surgery, again with x-ray and then its own sonogram.)

I chose to return to Homolka Hospital both because of their reputation (for what I need) and their good English. Trust is one thing – a good thing to have; comfort level is another, and I needed it also. Czechs and their doctors are not used to (by their own admission) asking and answering questions. You know me well enough to know I certainly will have those. And it was only through some extended conversation that the doc really moved into the pneumonia sphere, primarily because of complicating symptoms. So once again, communication takes the prize!

Another thing Homolka has is a superb “Foreigners’ Reception” – yep, great English and wonderful attitudes, unfortunately also M-F. (It’s good next door at Motol Hospital, which is a major teaching hospital, also.) They shepherd me through each next step, very reassuring, especially when you’re feeling terrible.

Every poliklinika and hospital has a lekarna (chemist/pharmacy). They’re also “everywhere” to fill prescriptions, provide information and “special” over-the-counter cosmetic and/or health items, like the herbal teas. Not at all like CVS or WalMart.

As for money – my last visit cost 2180 Kcs ($120.84) everything included. It was interesting to see that on the invoice it stated how many degrees my docs have :-) I must add that I (and most of my colleagues) don’t even think in terms of USD since we don’t earn USD. (And often when making a purchasing decision I think in terms of how many classes I’d teach for that item.) You gotta admit, from the world I knew that price is a bargain!

Once again – I’ve gone on too long. I’m sure you can tell I’m fascinated by the medical world here, just wish I weren’t seeing it from the inside. But I can tell I’m on the mend – the very fact that I cared about and then could sit up to write this affirms that. I promise more later. And I hope you’re having a very interesting side trip while I’m taking this part of our journey together.

Peace and joy to you.

Thursday, December 31, 2009

A Joyous New Year to you

And where did 2009 go? Life seems to be on fast forward most of the time. And it doesn’t wait for me to gather my thoughts, savor my impressions, and/or simply catch up with myself.

Yes, it’s been a busy, eventful, fulfilling year. Yep, there are more wrinkles in my face, and yes, more smiles. I am continuously amazed at the gift of health which allows me to walk around this beautiful town, spend time with my marvelous students, and enjoy my new friendships. Most of all, it’s been a year in which every single day had something – big, little, conscious, subconscious, or even in-your-face – to remind me how very blessed I am. For that I stay in a continuous state of gratitude.

My biggest gift this year was having Matthew and Alex with me for Christmas – ten days of being together (even with some flu/colds) and just enjoying their company. What a high! The weather wasn’t cooperative but our spirits were. The Prague Zoo was the winner with us (included in Forbes best 10 in the world, someone else’s list of top 5) and we made three trips without seeing it all. The third trip was even more special, because I was with both grandsons (Dasa and Thomas are with her family for Christmas)! The boys are enjoying their cousinhood, and it was such a gift to see them together.

Here it is, ready or not – time for 2010. I’m no more ready for a new year this time than I have been in the past. Yet it always comes and brings its own special gifts.

One of the things I specially enjoy when talking with my students is comparing American and Czech sayings. There is almost always an equivalent idea, whether or not the animals used for reference or the elements being described are the same. I will close this note to you with the wish I received in a card from my boss. I don’t know an American way to express it – and I do wish it for you in 2010:

May you saddle your lions.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Expectations - - -

Yep, I still exist, and I expect to continue to do so for some undetermined time. Certainly there have been conversations which turn to endings (of many things) lately, and those conversations are with others, not just myself! A wonderful NYT column recently reminded me that it is the fact of death – this life doesn’t go on forever – which gives meaning and definition to life. And there have been several tragedies among my friends recently, in a real meaning of the word, which have given me a heightened appreciation for the gift of life and the beauty of every day as well as the sadness of the unexpected, often sudden endings.

I still enjoy starting each day, and expect to continue to do so through the end of this “new” visa at a minimum. That would be September 2011. Frankly, it is difficult to imagine that time, because each day is such a gift, and most of the time I’m living each day one at a time. Once in a while I’ll tell myself I’m just plodding or trudging, but that’s when my feet and back are really tired, not my spirits. I know I will leave at some time, but for right now I am not making those plans. And I also know that leave taking could well come without being part of my plans. For now, what a joy to wake up in my comfy flat with a whole day of possibilities just waiting to be explored.

Great expectations still surround my teaching. There have been so many changes at StJ, the biggest of which is our merger with a much larger company. The company is very well managed, and its owner, a lively Czech in his mid-60s is really delightful and – wonder of wonders – personable. (That’s quite a change!) StJ is still a separate entity, still the same offices, still the same clients (with a lot of changes, many because of the economy), and quite a stable group of teachers. Best of all, I still have the same boss (Director of Studies) and my respect for him only grows. Problem: he’s been promoted to be in charge of all the teachers in the company (that’s 60 more and at a different location!) which means we’ll have fewer interactions with him. But I’m pleased for him. He’s great! I’m also so grateful for the good friends, American and Czech, who, like me, have taken new contracts. The StJ group remains different from most language schools – many of us are at least middle age (yeah, I passed that a long time ago) and there are only a few in their late twenties. We actually have a dress code, and there’s a lot of collective experience. .No “backpackers”, which is also comfortable.

As for my students – what an incredible group of people I get to mingle with each week – there are super expectations that this will only get better. I’ve been so excited to watch them study for and then pass difficult and various Cambridge exams, and this term I have several going for the most advanced ones! One of the best things is that I learn so much on multiple and diverse topics each week. Great conversations!

Today’s a day off and I expect to enjoy every minute of it. It’s more than that, however. It’s the 20th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution. I’m sure you know my personal connection with that event and perhaps have recognized that I’ve been digging into and appreciating Czech history for a long time, with more intensity and a lot of reading in the past couple years. Did you know that in the last 400 years – just to pick a date – the “Czech lands” have had only 57 years of self-government. That’s an incredible statement. One of people I admire greatly is Tomáš Masaryk, whose intelligence, wisdom and negotiations brought about the First Republic (1918-1938). He said it would take 50 years for a country to really become “solid”, my word for the idea. To think they’ve never had that. When talking about this with students yesterday, I told them they are now living in a record! Longest period yet. So yes, I expect to enjoy being part of this freedom (with its wacky politics, but then again - - - what’s that line about glass houses?) for some time to come.

Some unexpected events which are turning out just fine: my surgery this summer was totally successful and the Czech hospital experience was much better than I could have possibly expected. After getting myself all recuperated from that, however, I had a serious and unexpected fall at a tram stop (not my fault, by the way) which finally resulted in another hospital trip (outpatient). This was even better – super doctor, great English (and the American way – it’s definitely not Czech – of answering questions), and excellent help back to nearly full functioning. I could never have expected that I’d be doing all this walking, climbing (stairs and hills), hustling, and yes, plodding at this time in my life. Yep, I’ve had unexpected weight loss J and feel great.

Another expectation: I absolutely will spend more time on my Czech. I’m really ashamed that I’ve made so little progress in such a long time. But I’m pleased that I’m sticking with it. And I’m promising myself more effort outside of class. It’s embarrassing that I don’t do what I ask my students to do.

So – that’s a little of what’s been going on. My schedule this term brings longer days. I’m out of here most mornings at 7 a.m. and often do not return until at least 8 p.m. Frankly, I’m not real sure why it’s so much later this term, but at that time I have just about enough energy to close up the current day and get things together for the next one. It’s made a BIG difference in my emailing/blogging/general communication. Sorry.

My great expectation: I will continue to find all the little hidden treasures which are such a delight – a newly painted building (highlighting a date from somewhere in the 19th – or even 18th – century), the ivy covering an old, old wall turning a brilliant red in a fall which has been noticeably short of color and sunshine (I think we set a record for sunless days!), the almost painful glow of sunlight radiating from a rehabilitated, reconstructed building beginning its new life as a hotel, and best of all, the growing friendships which bring marvelous glimpses into personal histories of my students and friends. Yes, I expect it will continue and grow.

And I wish for you the joy of unexpected pleasures and treasures also. May your life be full of daily gifts.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Keepin' on keeping on

“My” church bells are ringing once again – it’s the Sunday noon call to prayer and contemplation. And I am listening and paying attention. Time has been passing so quickly, filled with so much busy-ness, that I can scarcely keep up with it and I surely cannot begin to remember all that has happened. It is definitely time to take stock, to say thank you yet again, and to share with you (very overdue, I’ll certainly admit) even a little of what has been happening.

Another term has been completed, my third full term plus a summer term at StJ. I know I’m sounding like a broken record – and yes, I’m aware we don’t have those anymore – but my gratitude for being at this school in this wonderful town at this time only grows. Our latest big news is that the school was sold in May, with the new owner taking over July 1. For us, I believe it can only be a good thing although I am sure that, as with all mergers and acquisitions (glad I’ve lived through those before!) there will be some positive changes and some that will feel not quite so positive. We were purchased by a firm which already has a translation company and also teaches English to pre-school kids and secondary school students. StJ fills a gap in its services, and they give StJ a wider client base for marketing. One plus for us is that we may work when qualified in any of the companies. There are several of my colleagues who really would like to teach the preschoolers. More power to them! And I already have one of their employees who has requested me as a teacher. So yes, that’s some nice space to spread our wings.

And this is surely a time for wing spreading! The poor economy has made itself felt over here. All schools are feeling the pinch of contracts which haven’t been renewed, and some companies which usually offer summer classes to their employees took a pass this year. I’ve been so blessed – my schedule is as full as I could possibly wish, maybe even a bit more than I’d wish. I do keep quiet, however, about being busy because so many of my colleagues are barely making it.

I continue to love reading and hearing about Czech history, the Czech viewpoint on global happenings, and students’ views of “what’s next”. I also continue to enjoy and be grateful for the superb conversations about life, literature, families, traditions, and our similarities and differences which happen nearly every day. Somtimes it is difficult to know who's the student and who's the teacher. And I do keep up with at least the main headlines of US news (sometimes with pain, sometimes with shame, always with concern for my friends and family and all those in such difficult situations).

I’ve now have experience with Czech medical care, very positive to say the least. Had surgery on my foot three weeks ago. All went very well. I was at Motol Hospital (for anyone interested in an internet search) almost always with an English speaker “assigned” to me – and that includes my orderly, entertaining me all the way to the OR :-) How do you know I wasn’t in an American hospital? I received a refund at checkout! Can you believe it! I took two weeks off from teaching and have been using taxis a bit as I returned. I am down to one “stick” instead of two, and am very eager to get on with life. I feel old and very clumsy at this point! Several of my students have been on holiday and a couple others have been coming to my flat to save me the trip. I hope to be at full tilt very soon.

More gratitude – this time for my terrific new flatmate. Thomas left the second week of May and Mark, a colleague who had also become a friend, moved in the third week! I couldn't have dreamed a better change. Mark's a Chicago native, mid-40s author, superb photographer, and all-round great guy. I’m certain he had no idea what he signed on for! He’s been so helpful and such a great conversationalist during this period at home. Never goes out without asking if I need something, has cooked some marvelous suppers, loaned me a couple super books to read, and just generally been such a gentleman. I know he’s pleased with his part of the flat and the super location. We even have our version of an herb garden growing on our kitchen table and refrigerator. Once again it is amazing how everything fell in place for each of us at just the right time.

It will be wonderful to regain mobility. I’ve been missing excursions, “photo ops,” and new perspectives. I’m eager to begin working again on my students’ lists of recommended sites and events. Will say that our weather hasn’t been conducive to wandering around either. It’s been very cold for July, exceedingly wet for anytime. We’ve had a few hot days and frankly, I do prefer bundling up, if only I didn’t also need an umbrella. Count on it – you’ll hear about it when I’m again out and about.

My next “big” event will be visa renewal. Again, my how time flies. . . . This one can be for two years. Who would have thought all that time ago that I’d be blessed with celebrating this stage of life in this place. Once more, you’ll know when it’s completed. The upside – I won’t have to wait in the freezing cold mid-winter predawn!

Czech class continues to be a real challenge. Our teacher is great, and our small dedicated band of 7 opted to share the cost of paying her during the summer. Part of today must be given over to studying. Had no clue how much more difficult that could become with each birthday. Oh well, I can say and understand a little, and hope that before long it will be much more. Sylvie (the teacher) assures us that if we stick with it we’ll be just fine (that’s certainly not the same as fluent or even conversational!) within a year. Besides learning a little Czech I’m learning a lot of empathy for my students. And they admit to being glad they were born Czech and have to learn English.

I hope you are having challenges and rewards, new perspectives, and continued opportunities to find silver linings in this time of multiple clouds. What a grand time to be alive, each of us in our “right” space.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Running in Circles

Contrary to appearances, I have not dropped off the map! I'm still right here in this lovely, nearly magical kingdom. I am, however, recovering from such a rush of work and total blackout of my computer that this has been a very long time coming. Sorry for the silence.

First the rush of work - - - this is exam time. I don't know why I let it it take me by surprise, but I guess that is probably true to form. And of course, I've made multiple resolutions about how I will do it differently next time. (And next time, hopefully, I won't be "under the weather" for the whole period. Thank goodness I am, at very long last, feeling like myself again, just in time to launch into the new term. And there's a rumor that spring is coming. Hooray!)

Exams are an interesting phenomenon at StJ and most of the other schools around here. I certainly understand why the school promises client companies they will be kept informed regarding their employees' progress. I've had moments of almost/nearly/possibly offering to put a course together for the school to offer to various HR departments about how they could get the most for their dollars. Now, I'm not quite that foolish, but it is a bit disturbing to see little things which would be relatively easy to "fix" and which would make for a better experience for everyone (selfishly, I would add, me included). Be that as it may, the big yard- or meterstick is grades for all students in January and June. First, of course, for some of the classes it is a DIY (the "Y" being me!) project. At least this time I knew to collect material for that. Others are required by their companies to take a standardized exam written by the school. Easier at the front end, more difficult on the other. And then there is the grading, the explaining, and entering lots and lots of data into the school's database. Because it was just upgraded, we also had to enter extra reports on all students. O.K. -- lots of work, but that's just part of the job.

Sorta -- in the middle of it all the "new and improved" DB decided it didn't like my computer, and shut me down completely. It wasn't just the i'net I was missing, as has happened so often before. It was the whole thing. All I had was a screen showing that I was beginning a reply to an email -- only the reply box was black. Talk about frustrating -- or not talking about it would be better! Anyhow, thanks to the magic of technology and the wizardry of my incredible NC computer man, I am now back up and running!

It's all come together in a perfect combination -- exams and reporting completed, good health in spite of all the germs flying around the trams and metro, and a fresh start with some current students as well as a new beginning with a couple very interesting students. What a great time!

Then a great weekend to enjoy the freedom! Yesterday morning was my Czech class. Oh, it is not easy! I never thought it would be, but it's especially difficult when I give time to exams and health instead of homework! And yes, I have enormous empathy for my students. Fortunately, I had a realistic picture of life before I started Czech lessons -- we all work and we all have other obligations. And now I not only can can understand just not being able to fit in homework but also with why some parts of our grammar are so difficult for Czechs to learn. Our teacher is SO good, and is moving to Majorca soon to be in the same country as her husband. Great idea for them, not great for us! I've learned so many things from her, not just some of the language.

Mid-afternoon was the start of another great party. My T'giving party friend hosted a "Mid-winter Blues" party. What fun, what great food in enormous quantities (yes, I did my part to cut down the amount of leftovers!), what a marvelous way to spend a Saturday.

Now it's time to play a bit of catch-up and get ready to see a movie with a Czech colleague. We're going to The Curious Story of Benjamin Button, which is, I've heard, an F. Scott Fitzgerald story. I've also heard it's VERY long. So much for the rest of this day - - -

I've made a "starter" list of places to go / things to do when the weather is a bit more hospitable. And slowly I'm gathering folks who say "I'd love to go there with you." Just little one-day leave-in-the-morning, explore the town, return-in-the-evening excursions. Of course I'll "take you along with me." Until we start that, you just know I can't keep from telling you about this marvelous town. Yes, I'm happier than ever here. Yes, it's a wonderful life! And yes, I know there'll be more to share as I move into a more normal routine. Until then, I wish you joy, wonder, and good health in all your daily travels.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

The Circle I'm In

Another busy week, full of the ordinary, blessed with those shining moments of anticipation/realization which seem to give life to more moments that are equal mixtures of routine and shimmer.

The week started with a marvelous morning at the Foreign Police. And I am passing it along for two reasons: first, because it is so seldom that
marvelous and Foreign Police are used in the same sentence, and second because it was such a successful encounter. It was not wonderful to answer the alarm at 3:30 a.m. and realize my US friends had not even gone to bed yet. (I'm sure that jolt was not helpful in getting re-oriented to Prague time!) I am now carrying (a copy of) my "Long Term Resident" visa around with me. And every once in a while I look at it just for the joy of knowing that is really me! I must admit the pictures are getting worse, and I hope just a little of that downhill trend is the photography, not the aging of the subject. This time the photographer would not let me smile. Oh, well. Didn't keep me from getting the visa :-) and yet again :-)

I am still struggling to make a slow return to "normal" health, which could be interpreted multiple ways at this stage of life. By the end of the week I'd shaken off almost all remainders/reminders of my post-holiday cold. I even have leftover medicaments (Czech term) from the Lekarna (trans. "Chemist" -- a pharmacy with only few other items for sale, all having to do with health and well being) just in case whatever-this-is hits again. Since it seems to be making the Prague rounds, I'm hoping the leftovers will be a voodoo spell against the bug entering the flat again! Maybe it will recognize there is no welcome here and leave me alone.

The week also contained some wonderful students "ups" and some disappointing "downs". Lately I've been enjoying the emergence of humor in a second (or third/fourth) language in several of my upper level students. It is my theory that spontaneous humor, not just a repeated joke, is yet one more sign of fluency. You have to know your way around a language and have a feel for the lovely nuances of just the right word to be able to engage in irony, puns, or simply a good turn of a phrase. This week I was gifted with three different examples. Here's one: a student began our session asking if I'd heard about the new airport in NYC. "Well, it was actually only one more runway. . . " And he knew it was acceptable to joke about the USAirways landing in the Hudson because there had been no serious injuries.

The "downs" are cancellations of classes I really enjoy. I've lost eight teaching hours in the last week or so. I anticipated I would be losing hours because of the economy, but that was not the cause of any of them (yet!). Just a "perfect storm" of unusual circumstances which is leaving me with my eyes open for new students and feeling the loss of some whose company I really enjoyed. It will be really interesting and painful to watch events transpire over the next few weeks and months.

This is an especially busy time (not good when what I really want to do is sleep!) preparing exams, writing end-of term narrative reports on each student, and doing a lot of rescheduling to keep up with frequent absences. I must admit it is much more difficult to begin and end the day in such darkness. I enjoy all the "little" things I'm learning, such as what it means to live in a "higher" latitude than any US city below Alaska. It's wonderful to know that the days are getting longer, but it is definitely not noticeable yet. Add all the cloud cover of snow, near-snow, "freezing fog" -- first time I've encountered that forecast, and it's pretty dreary much of the time. Only the weather, that is!

There is "time off for good behavior" this weekend! A French colleague is hosting a "French Toasts" get together at his home. I'm curious how his French toast differs from mine. I know that the first difference is a chestnut spread, brought from home when he visited at the holidays. And the second is that he's sharing his mother's homemade jams, also the accepted topping, with all of us. Add in the international flavors with pot lucking, the accents, and the enjoyment of each other's company, and it will be a great afternoon. Wish you were here to share it with me.

It will soon be my first anniversary! What a wonderful year. It seems silly and redundant to say yet again how happy I am to be here. Life always has its routines; it always takes work to make things happen; there are smiles and new friends and hundreds of stories everywhere. How blessed and contented I am that this is the place where I can do that continuous learning. My wish for you -- that you are having the same "new" year where you are.

The "circle of days" is such an apt expression for my life right now. None of them goes far off course on its own new trajectory -- maybe there will be a little of that when spring arrives. And each of them brings its own particular joy, something to treasure and protect as the circle continues, along with all the ordinary daily tasks which carry them forward. It is -- really -- a wonderful life!





Sunday, January 11, 2009

Ordinary Isn't Boring

"X" marks the spot. We are "here" -- the end of the first full week of the New Year. It's been a refreshing return to at least some sense of normalcy. January means winter to me, and winter is exactly what we have!

It would be nice if it were even a couple degrees warmer! We haven't reached 0 (Celsius) -- and I'm talking about moving "up to"! -- yet this week, and I believe it isn't forecast for next week. Sunday/Monday brought snow. Monday was beautiful. It snowed the whole day -- sometimes enormous lazy flakes, sometimes furious little ones, but generally slow and steady. No whiteouts! By mid-day Tuesday, there was a lot of brown slippery stuff around. Because we are well below freezing, it isn't even slushy. Some (only a few) of the walks are cleared very well, but in most cases it's a sometimes thing. So in addition to bundling up, I'm walking very, very carefully and a bit more slowly than usual. It's been mentioned many times that this is more like a Prague winter -- last year was too warm. One of the nice things about "having a history" is that I can remember last Spring. And I know it will come again. I'm already compiling my new list of things I'll do when it is not quite so cold and not quite so difficult to get from here to there!

Teaching for StJ just keeps getting better. Nearly a year later, and it is still the right place for me. How blessed I was in all the events leading to this placement. And it is so nice to be told how much my work is appreciated by both my boss and my students. Sure, now and again I have a class I'd rather give to someone else. It is wonderful, however, to be in a situation where it was so nice to move past the holiday break and be able to see people I really enjoy.

Speaking of "nearly a year," Monday is my next trip to the Foreign Police. Last week was the time for all the appointments required to get it in order -- insurance papers, landlord papers, stamps from the Post Office (have no idea what that's for), photographs (and I do look a lot older than last year :-(, on and on. Of course, I am obsessing about having all my papers in order and knowing which tram/bus connection to make. It has not been many months since my last trip. Getting the visa is necessary for anything beyond the 90-day visitors' stay. From now on the visa extension will be an annual thing. It is supposed to be easier getting the extension. The hard part is decision making: Q: How early must I get there to be able to get a number for the line (think "deli") then be called and finish in one day? A: 5 a.m., and the doors don't open until 7:30. Q: Must I take an interpreter (Czech is the only language spoken at the FP)? A: No. Katerina, our wonderful office manager, will come to help me if there is any problem. That lengthens the FP visit, but whatever . . . . anything to get done. Q: Since I will be alone this year (I went with a colleague who arrived when I did last year) what do I take to "do" while waiting? A: Hmmm. A book to read, some Czech vocabulary to learn, and maybe even some knitting, I guess. A good friend spent 12 hours on her recent trip. I know myself, however, and since the big room is really chaotic, I know I won't get "real" work done -- too many interruptions, too much moving from one place to another, etc. Then of course there is the fact that I usually teach eight hours on Monday. Arrangements have already been made for the morning classes; I know I won't make them. Then yet another terrific StJ person, Jaromir, will stay in contact with me -- Czech Republic, the land of cell phones and (free) text messaging! -- and cancel afternoon classes if and when necessary. What a production. Fortunately it is only once a year!

And speaking of "schools" and "classes," I have now joined another school part time. Alka Language Specialists has been in business nearly 20 years. Congratulations to them! They're smaller than StJ and do exactly the same kind of business -- work with companies/institutions/organizations on a contract basis, sending teachers to the site for classes. Neither school offers "public" classes. I have three classes with them already -- great students in each class and at a super location for me -- and they are asking for more of my time. One of the difficult things about this kind of work is that most companies want their English classes either first thing in the morning or last thing in the afternoon. It's called "peak time." I've been SO fortunate that StJ has filled most of my daytime hours as well. Yes, I get tired; and yes, I have to prepare and do other class work at night. But it means I get more opportunities to do what I love doing. Now with the two schools it will begin to be a bit of a rub. Of course StJ has precedence -- I "owe" them my peak time, but it is difficult to sit back quietly (that's always been hard for me, as you know) when things are in such a state of change and wait for #1 to make up its mind before accepting something from #2. Oh well - - this will sort out, and very quickly, I think. I'm just so pleased to be working with the people I've met there already.

It was interesting that the assigned material for one of my classes on the first day after the New Year was about wishes and life changes. Of course we also talked about resolutions (usually kept from 3-10 days). So certainly it is in my mind as well as on the lesson plan. One of the differences between the two, we noted, is that we have no control over wishes. So yes, I have a wish, and yes, I know I don't control the outcome. I wish I could continue doing this for many years. I'm aware of all the things which could change the outcome -- health, accidents, things in the States that I would want to be available for, many other things I can't or won't imagine now. How happy and how fortunate I am to be in this spot at this time, especially since technology means I am not cut off from family and friends as I would have been even a few years ago. And I feel as though I'm just now really settling down into the routine, becoming able to do things more efficiently and effectively, and certainly to enjoy each moment more than ever before.

And yes, I have a couple resolutions that I realize are dependent on me and my efforts. The first is to get serious about learning Czech! My teacher's great; the change from one four-hour class a month to two two-hour classes is really helpful; and I'm enjoying a small bit of reward for my small bit of effort. I must raise the bar on it, however. Demand more from myself and expect better results -- no more of these "my brain is tired and old" thoughts! I hate feeling stupid, and I do feel really stupid when I have no clue what a notice about tram service means or when someone is asking a question or being especially friendly and I have to reply, "Anglicky" along with some other word which means "I don't understand" or "I'm sorry." What is so terribly daunting is that it will take forever to be "good", but that doesn't mean I can't get a bit better. And I do resolve to make more regular efforts to reach that. (And it is so much more difficult than it used to be.)

Another resolution is to be even more organized about my "To Do in Prague" list. There are advertisements for concerts I'd like to attend or places with regular performances I would enjoy. As I continue reading Czech history (and I resolve to continue that -- it's really fascinating as well as difficult to retain, since I'm so unfamiliar with so many Central European rulers, wannabes, and political intrigue) I continue to learn about more places I want to visit. And Prague is full of lovely green places, marvelous parks with their own fountains and sculpture, delicious little cafes with lots of history floating about. My resolve: write these things down and start ticking them off the list!

My most important resolution: never lose sight of how blessed I am and have been -- my health-- keeping this schedule at this time of my life; my family; my friends -- those with whom I've shared years and many experiences, those who are part of this amazing new place, and those I have yet to meet; the places I've been; all the memories I have collected and cherish. Yes, sometimes I despair over the situation in the States, the malevolence and violence toward individuals and countries around the world, the rigid focus on that which divides rather than finding and placing value on that which unites. And I am always reminded that my attitude can be contagious, I can help bring about even a small change in someone else's world. Yes, I'd wish for peace, for respect for the dignity of human life, for intelligence, wisdom, and a lessening of pandering to vested interests. But those are wishes. I can resolve to be responsible for my thoughts and actions. And I do.

šťastný nový rok -- Happy New year to you.








Sunday, January 4, 2009

I'm Back - -

- - - and it's time for the "new" of the New Year.

As I looked out into my dearly familiar courtyard (definitely not on the list of "places to visit" but equally definitely mine) while waiting for my electric kettle to boil, "I Love Paris" popped into my head. Prague fits into the rhythm only by making two syllables out of the "a", but certainly the sentiment works for me. We're in the "winter" phrase big time right now! Cold Cold Cold and windy, and I'm told it gets colder! We've also had a bit of snow each of the past few days, enough to bring out the boots and watch out for slick spots, but not enough to rearrange activities.

Last winter I kept hearing ". . . but this is unusual" when folks were discussing the weather. It was strangely reminiscent of my first few years in NC. Weather was always a safe topic of conversation on the BlueCross shuttle bus, and I learned after only a few trips that whatever was happening at the moment was not the "usual." My expectation, based on early Prague conversations, is that it will get colder and there will be more snow. So we're missing the Parisian "drizzle", thankfully, but getting the Prague drifts.

Google/gmail has added "themes" to users options. Though I'm not usually curious about "new and improved" changes to things which are working fine just as they are now, thank you very much, I did check this out. And I now have my local "weather situation" on my gmail page. Yep, it is snowing across the top of my page with drifts piling up on their logo and my inbox heading. Very entertaining. And it is also snowing outside my window. The red roofs -- and I do love the red roofs of Prague -- are becoming pink and flat surfaces of the buildings are becoming slightly rounded. A great day to be inside!

And even as I anticipate a return to my students and the familiar rhythms of travel/teach/travel/prepare, I'm also wondering what weather the next three months will bring. No problem driving! I do believe, however, I need to look for another pair of boots before the stores are displaying only swimsuits. I'm a little curious just how many steps would get me through three months. I know they'll need to be warm and dry.

And without rushing things, I'm really looking forward to watching Spring arrive. I do "love Pra-ague in the springtime." I now have favorite spots to anticipate and enjoy even as I discover new parks, new benches, and new breathtaking views. Gotta love a city with so many hills! Even the ordinary becomes extraordinary when it's a surprise. The gifts are endless. For many years I've realized I would have difficulty living in an area without four seasons. And yes, I may fuss but I'll look forward to the "summer, when it sizzles" (and the tourists -- I'm so glad I'm not living with that limited time) as well. It's a great rhythm, and I'm grateful to be repeating it.

My desk is orderly and clean. That was a lengthy two-step process! So many little pieces of paper which meant something important at one time or another and which have no apparent connection to anything
in the near future; so many new "to do" lists to create; so many inconsequential decisions; and, of course, so many mental time-outs as I rearrange pictures of Alexander and Thomas. Then step two -- serious cleaning of every inch before bringing a new order out of the chaos. And it is complete.

Then there are the usual weekend activities such as food shopping and the trip to the laundromat. As you know, that weekly trip to the washers/dryers which work so well has been an important constant in my life. I've grown to know and enjoy the bilingual, helpful folks who work the front desk and, after some time, nodded to and then began to greet the lovely professional Czech woman who is the owner. I'm sure you've heard that coffee/tea and computer time are free for customers. (Yes, some folks do come in only to use the computers.) On my tray yesterday (coffee is always served on a tray in a "real" cup with its own cream/sugar) was a lovely crystal goblet with a smooth, delicious sherry/chocolate drink. New Year's thanks to a "special customer." And I felt very special indeed.

Tomorrow begins a busy month. I'm actually looking forward to a slight break from the usual teaching routine as we prepare for end-of-term exams. Today will be filled with changing out teaching materials. I've also joined another school as a part timer. Alka Language Specialists has been in business for 19 years -- I'm impressed -- is smaller than St. James and also specializes in in-company courses. I have three classes a week for/with them. They very thoughtfully gave me classes in an area and at a time I'm already working! Contracts with companies/organizations are changing, as I'm sure you'd guess, and this seemed like a good opportunity to branch out, add some new adventures. This week I'll have 32 teaching hours -- that doesn't include travel or preparation, so I do have to be supremely organized, not an easy task for me! As several of my classes at StJ come to an end (tho' I know others will be added later) and the new classes integrate more smoothly into the routine, life will settle down a bit for February (or at least that is the plan).

It is both interesting and demanding to read about the issues and challenges facing the States, Obama, and the American people. I am particularly grateful to be slightly removed from the egocentric views of much of the media and to have access both
to columnists I admire (who always make me stretch and think) and to the press from other countries. My students surely keep me reading and thinking (and introspective) with their opinions and questions. And my mind is often traveling down yet another rabbit trail of interconnections, possible cause/effect relationships, and uncertainty and dread about the world Alexander and Thomas are being handed. I do think of you with concern and with a wish for a sense of balance and internal tranquility in spite of the external chaos and confusion.

So I'm definitely back in the groove of things. It's time for a new visa -- I can hardly believe it! And it's yet another new beginning with all the hopes, expectations, and promises of new adventures which go along with that. I hope your new year is joyous and hopeful also.


Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Happy New Year

Wishing you and those you love –

all who bring joy, meaning,

and significance to your life –

a year of inner peace amidst global chaos,

good health in times of challenges to our well being,

pleasure and contentment as we make our way through the complexities of daily life,

and the blessings of knowing we are cherished and protected.

Happy 2009 to you

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

'Tis the Season

. . . for some small part of nearly everything.

The season for reflection -- pondering the year just past could consume another year! What an amazing year (actually, fantastic lifetime) this has been. Recent conversations have brought so many memories to the surface, have shaped so many unexpected hopes and wishes, and, as usual, have highlighted so many shortcomings. Seemingly random encounters open virtual storehouses of thoughts, each of which could lead to its own dissertation or, conversely, could hit an immediate stone wall. Most of those will join a growing "To Do" list of both concrete and abstract self assignments. And of course, there will be the perpetual sense of hopefulness -- this year I'll really get organized, this year I'll really do things differently, this year I'll really make a dent in those good intentions!

The season for gratitude -- creating a list of the gifts of life, every size from petite to XXXXXL and beyond, is an endless task in and of itself.
Most conversations, thoughts, and encounters seem to either focus on or somehow touch a deep well of gratitude for all the marvelous gifts I've been given: my family, my friends, countless opportunities, new horizons, all the seemingly accidental encounters and even dumb luck which have moved me through a virtual dictionary of emotions. And for each of them I am a deeply grateful.

The season for renewal -- renovating and refurbishing the various compartments of my brain is a never ending task. This season brings new emphasis and concern to the work. For some unexplored reason the holiday season always tucks this two-sided coin in my mental stocking: Joy and delight at all the wonders and a bit of wistfulness about the "roads not taken." And for every item on my mental punch list as I take occupancy of this House of 2009 (how can that be?) there will be a stronger sense of reality and urgency to get on with the job, whether interior decoration or external landscaping!

The season for regrets -- examining and bringing reality to the mistakes, lost opportunities, poor decisions, and general oooops, whether of 2008 or the accumulations of a lifetime. To paraphrase one of the British poets, distance does not lend enchantment to this view! I'm grateful for the lesson learned from an acquaintance some years past, a psychotherapist whose work with "women of a certain age" was beginning to hit the best sellers list of the time. She said that the difference between guilt and regret is that regret indicates you've learned something and now know how to act/interact differently. Guilt means you intended to hurt/harm another or yourself and may continue to do so. And though I wish to keep the regrets to a minimum in this season, I would fervently wish to eliminate the times when "I'm sorry" is caused by guilt.

The season for resolutions (and a few promises!) -- determining the most relevant changes and being constant and steadfast in bringing them about is such a global resolution. Yet I do know that I can change only myself, even as I wish I could bring positive change into and for the lives of others. Creating those ripples of new horizons for the lives I touch is a big resolution for this coming year. I will continue to make all the little promises which can help that happen.

It's a major season for me, my brain, and my heart. As we began this journey nearly a year ago now -- who'd have thought it would look and be like this? -- I had no idea where we'd go, what we'd see, who we'd meet. It's been an absolutely incredible adventure -- a magical triumvirate of people, places, and events. I must say, I can hardly wait to see what 2009 will bring, what the season's musings will bring about. I do hope you'll join me in the discoveries!








Sunday, December 14, 2008

Sundries

So many little things knit themselves together to make a good day, a satisfying week, or a weekend in which everything seems to go just right. After all these years, I'm beginning to learn that my most important job (in every situation) is to be ready. Then just "go with the flow". And these times are almost always unexpected. That's how things have been lately.

What a super Mikulas ((pronounced mick'-oo-lahsh) party last weekend. First, I feel so honored to be included in events such as this with great people, marvelous multi-ethnic food, and a general good time. The hostess was the neat young woman who was the former Assistant Director of Studies at StJ and has now returned to teaching. We are able to spend a few moments together each week in the reception area where we have classes at the same time at one of the StJ clients. I always look forward to those times together. Yes, the flat was small and packed wall to wall with people. But what fun! Getting there, being there, and getting home just before the tram schedule switched over to the night service -- all of it. Laughter piled upon laughter, new ideas and interesting perspectives continuously floating around in the swirl of conversation. What an evening!

I awoke (long before daylight, as is usual now) to a lazy snowfall Friday morning. It was one of those times when a relatively brief tram ride takes me from snow to rain to only cloudiness, then perhaps back to more snow. The seven hills of Prague certainly produce interesting weather differences very quickly. The snow seemed to be a little heavier as I was riding, and I got off into huge flakes coming down hard enough that they were beating a rhythm on my umbrella. And suddenly - - nothing but wet cobblestones and droopy hair. After class the sky seemed lower, the general color around me was that of frozen mist, as if the atmosphere had "frozen" the breath of the world as it exhaled.

Fast forward to another, longer tram ride in the early afternoon. The view was unchanged from the previous several hours when I shut my eyes for a few moments, I guess just because it seemed like a nice idea. Now I know it was preparation for a major gift, because when I opened them I was in the middle of an incredible winter wonderland. In that area of the city the snow was wet and heavy, the bare branches had been dressed in white fleece at least three inches thick, the grassy areas between apartment buildings were under an untouched blanket of white. It was so dramatic that all I could do was gasp and stare. What a gift! As I descended -- very carefully -- from the tram, I was in the middle of brown slush and puddles. And even with that I couldn't take my eyes away from the incredible beauty around me. Wish you could have shared it with me.


How many years now have I been humming along with "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire"? As usual, Wikipedia gave me a longer answer than I needed, but it certainly added some sparkle to my internal music score. I did know it was written during WWII, 1944 to be precise, by Mel Torme, that man with a golden voice. I didn't know he discovered four lines written by Bob Well, the lyricist, sitting on the piano. Wells wasn't intending to write a song; he was trying to "stay cool by thinking cool" during a hot Arizona summer. Those four lines -- Chestnuts roasting, Jack Frost nipping, Yuletide carols, Folks dressed up like Eskimos -- became what is/was the most-performed Christmas song. And it took only 40 minutes. (Enough time left to enjoy a glass of iced tea!)

And now it isn't just words -- "roasting chestnuts" is a real experience for me. When Dasa and Thomas and I were waiting for a train in her village this past summer, she exclaimed about the dying chestnut trees which had always sheltered the little waiting area. Tree after tree was either dead or soon would be. That was, I believe, the first time I thought about chestnuts coming from an "ordinary" source, as pecans do in Oklahoma. This holiday season I've seen many little stands selling hot roasted chestnuts as I walk between trams and between classes, and it was such a nice connection between summer and winter. But there has always been a reason to keep going, or to put it differently, a reason not to stop. This past week curiosity and some spare time won out! I indicated to the young man tending the chestnuts and the fire that I would like some. Right away he reached for a bag and a long handled large spoon, opened the giant pot, and weighed out my 100 grams. And yes, they were hot! Within a few moments, however, I could begin the peeling process. Oh my goodness. They are good! Rather soft, somewhat dry and mealy, very satisfying. Since I was close to the company, I closed the bag, hugged it tight so it wouldn't cool, and took it to my student. We opened class enjoying warm chestnuts and hot green tea -- talking in English all the time. It was just the right touch on a really cold day. One of the best parts was his smile of surprise when I asked to learn about eating chestnuts!

All week the temperatures have been hovering in the mid- to high-20s at night, low- to mid-30s during the day, usually accompanied by a noticeable and sometimes brisk breeze. I normally wait to stroll across the Charles Bridge until a more pleasant day. This trip couldn't wait -- and it was wonderful. One of my "favorite" friends here is a lovely young California woman, former teacher of children with special needs, one of those people whose quiet smile just lights up a room. Whenever she admired a pair of earrings I was wearing the answer would always be "I got them on the Charles Bridge years ago." And she would always reply, "I wish you'd take me sometime." Yesterday we made our trip -- and I certainly hope it isn't our only one. What a marvelous excursion. We were both looking for gifts, both suitably huddled in our scarves and gloves, and both in the mood to walk and talk, and stop and look, and go back to something else, then forward to something new. Even the frozen fingers and toes couldn't stop us. They did, however, make us linger in the best looking heated tourist shop after we reached the other side of the Bridge! The trip was successful in every way -- she found just the right gift for a birthday party she was attending that evening, I found something I never thought of as a gift for Thomas (I do hope he likes it -- it's not on his list any more than it was on mine!), and we really warmed up at a small cozy restaurant near the US Embassy that she remembered from a freezing day trip last year about this time!


And I never would have predicted that my plans for this Sunday evening would include a "Service of Lessons and Carols" -- one of my longstanding favorites of this season -- at an Anglican church. So many marvelous moments have been spent watching the Service from Westminster Cathedral at midnight on Christmas Eve. Other memorable times have been enjoyed preparing for and participating in the Service myself. And now, here I am, partway around the world, a series of unexpected choices bringing me to that Service again, joined by friends from Scotland, Britain, South Africa, and the US, as well an yet unknown friends. (I always enjoy eliciting the difference between "strangers" and "foreigners" from my students.) I do hope they folks planning the service haven't decided it's time for all new carols. And as I listen and sing, I know the memories will be crowding my spirit. It's a good thing I don't need to read the words. I'll be spending the evening with so many people who have shared the Service with me in the past. And who knows how many others will join the crowd in the future.

Have you noticed how much time we spend worrying about, fretting over, and dreading difficult events and times? (The news in the US is doing much of that for us, although personal concern is certainly justified!) My wish for you in this holiday season is that you will anticipate, expect, and plan for joy and peace. Joy waiting to surprise you in each new moment of your days, and peace deep within you, knowing that the right things do happen at the right time. It is our perception and awareness which is limited. I'm learning. Fortunately the process is continuously reinforced! I hope you also are being surprised by joy.


Saturday, December 13, 2008

It's beginning to look a lot like - - -

Oh my, it seems that things speed up at this time of the year no matter where I am. The past few weeks have been hectic, my brain is constantly overflowing with projects left half-completed, and my body is saying "Give me a break, won't you please." Everything that has been added to the normal schedule is wonderful, however, so I just answer - - "Later!"

Christmas has so many traditions here -- some related to saints (more on that later) and most about family and food and good times that have endured. I've thoroughly enjoyed listening to the different stories my students tell -- and watching their faces as they relate what they have done or will be doing this year. Whether with their family of birth or the family they have created, all place great importance on being together, including all generations available, and keeping their own family traditions alive, whether for two people or twenty-two.

So let's go to the beginning of the season and one of the saints -- St. Mikulas Day. (Recognize a similarity to Nicholas there?) December 5, StM Day, is the "official" beginning of Christmas, as I understand it. And I've heard some marvelous stories overflowing with nostalgia. Here's what I've learned - - -

The Christ Child is the gift-giver on Christmas Day (December 24th here), and on Saint Mikulas' (Nicholas) Feast Day (December 6), children in some Central European countries traditionally place a boot on their windowsill (sometimes balcony, if fortunate enough to have one in their flat) waiting for Mikulas to come by and fill it with treats. "Good" children receive various fruits, candies, and toys, "bad" children can expect nothing more than a wooden spoon or a willow-switch left by his somewhat sinister elf-companion, Krampusz, in Hungary. In the Czech Republic, Mikulas is often accompanied by the Angel and Devil. And it is on December 5, the Eve of St. Nicholas' Feast, they receive their treats. However, since no one is all good or bad, most children get both sweets and a switch! (Thank you, once again, Wikipedia.)

As it has been related to me multiple times -- with nearly identical memories -- Mikulas (Czech/Central European spelling)
is always with an angel and a devil. The angel (and the Saint) reward good children, and the devil will put them in a sack and, depending on who's relating it, burn them or banish them. I was a bit taken aback by a parent who was quite delighted to relate how much he frightened his children -- apparently intentionally -- with the devil threats. There is a "walk around" in Old Town Square on the evening of December 5th. Parents bring even their young children (reminiscent of parents bringing toddlers to Central Park West till the wee hours of the morning to see the Thanksgiving Parade balloons inflated!) to see the grand trio.

College students and other young people count on earning some cash during this time! During the afternnoon one can see various angels and saints boarding trams for their destination for the evening, wings under their arms, staff and crown looking very unsaintly. It seems some kids have recognized the face of a relative under the beard or mask when the group visits their home, so parents are now opting for strangers to perform the task! (Sound like some of the Santa figures you've known or heard about?)

One of the requirements for meeting the Saint is the performance (very well done, of course) of a song or a poem, something you've been preparing for some time. And of course your boots must be well polished. My Czech teacher recalls singing and reciting as if her life depended on it -- and indeed, she believed it did! Her story is representative, so here it is.

Dad took her and her sister to the square in their town; Mom begged off with some excuse about work or health, or something that would keep her home. The girls got through their performances, received their little treats, and made their way home with Dad. They were met at the door by their mom who was pleading for their help. "There was a terrible noise on the balcony and I am afraid to go out their to get _____ (fill in the blank with your own experience and imagination)." Of course the girls and Dad had to help. SURPRISE! The boots they had placed (sounds like stockings at the fireplace to me) were filled with wonderful things such as oranges (a rare treat at that time) and little candies. What joy!

Just as in the States, decorations and music and enticing sales precede even St. Mikulas day. My favorite, at least to this point, is the Christmas Market in Namesti Miru, the park/square across from St James. (They are all around the city, though, and it is interesting to look at similar items and dissimilar prices in different markets.) The Church of St. Ludmila dominates nam. Miru, and the market is in front of the church in a manner I believe is probably similar to the markets of years, possibly centuries ago. It is a series of many small wooden structures -- actually they would be good stand-ins for a stable in a nativity scene -- joined together in some places, then starting a new row or making a 90-degree turn at others. Each stall has a different offering, some with food, candy, or wine, others with handmade Christmas linens, or decorations, or other winter and/or gift necessities. Frankly, I just love walking slowly with the crowd. The huge Christmas tree with a nativity scene in front of it is decorated with hundreds of blue lights, as are the stalls. How beautiful and what fun to watch!

Women have been baking the marvelous Czech Christmas cookies for weeks now. One colleague even brought a plate of them to StJ for teachers to share. Yummy!

Shopping has begun in earnest. I've heard several people talk about finishing "early," but most seem to be just getting started. The trams are much more crowded than usual, and of course they are many more bags taking up space.

Christmas itself is a multi-day event. The 24th is the "big" day -- a public holiday, and the day of the first family get-together. Traditional foods are carp and potato salad, and everyone near enough will be there. The 25th is the day you prepare another big meal and share it with other relatives/close friends, those you didn't see the day before. As you can imagine, there's quite a bit of traveling, quite a bit of merry making! And at least from those who've told me their stories, the gift giving seems a bit more restrained. And it is definitely for the children.

Since we had snow again yesterday, it really is beginning to look a lot like Christmas -- white, lights, and all. And the festive spirit is evident. I hope you're enjoying it with me, wherever you are.








Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Thanksgiving - - -

the official Day, at least, is over for another year, no matter where you live! At least the American version is, as well as the versions transplanted to other places around the globe. And the meal? Well, let's just say that there were a lot of substitutions here!

As with most things, there is a story behind it all. My initial impulse to create a "transplanted" dinner begins with the memories of Michael's first Thanksgiving here and his efforts to provide a Thanksgiving meal for his friends. Bear in mind this was shortly after the Velvet Revolution and in a
town much smaller than Prague. Contrary to my expectations, some of the details have not changed all that much.

I had a more-than-willing accomplice. As a matter of fact, Theresa, a good friend and teaching colleague, became the prime mover in the whole event. Little did I realize the impact of my original, tentative "What do you think about doing a Thanksgiving dinner?" comment. From then on, my major contribution was that of cheerleader! Theresa and Peter, her partner, have a great flat, almost made for entertaining. (They actually have a small room they were told used to be the servant's room! And that is totally believable.) They also have a circle of long-time friends. Already we're talking a ready-made party here! In addition, she loves to cook and is constantly looking for excuses to spend time in her small but terrific kitchen. I was more than happy to give her yet another one!

First, of course, is the fact that T'giving is a normal work day here. It is ovious that Czech holidays, not American ones, provide a day off. We decided on Saturday following the official day -- a pretty logical second choice, since everyone was busy on the official day and had to get up to go to work the day after! Next decision -- 3:00 beginning, no pre-determined end. Given the fact that the day and dinner are so traditional, the next decisions involved figuring out how to get as close as possible to our traditional expectations.

And therein lies the adventure! The American owner of Jama, a great restaurant/pub near Wenceslas Square, is among Pete's circle of friends. And quite naturally, Jama was serving T'giving dinner in style for expats and interested Czechs -- on the actual day. Simple! He was more than happy to get us a turkey -- fresh a day later -- from his butcher. And his butcher was happy to cut it in half for us. Got the picture? That's one-half to be baked in my small oven and one-half in hers! Of course there was the slight complication of getting it home. Again, no problem. Each half was wrapped separately, and cooperatively we lugged our own halves a long walk to the metro station and a long walk to our separate flats.

Oh yes, I forgot to mention that Theresa lives only one (long) block from me. When we go to Czech class together we just meet at the tram stop at the top of the hill, and when we want to unwind on a Friday evening we meet at the pub at the bottom. Handy, right? Also very handy for transporting dinner plates and cutlery as well as cooked food, then returning with leftovers.

This adventure had been in the thinking and planning stages for some time now. And in spite of various suggestions from students and adventures on the internet, I did not come up with fresh (or freshly frozen) cranberries. BIG disappointment, since the three staples in my own holiday dinners are turkey, stuffing/dressing, and my own version of cranberry relish. Oh I do love that relish! Because a cranberry sauce tops svickova, a favorite traditional Czech dish, I knew they "existed" here. But, it turns out, not raw. So I spent an extraordinarily long time cutting orange and lemon peel into teeny tiny pieces with a somewhat dull knife to add to the available cranberry sauce. In case you're curious, it's much softer than the Ocean Spray jellied variety -- it actually pours from the jar. And tho' I was assured in an online chat that Ocean Spray would arrive on the shelves "any day now", I never saw a can or a bag. But this substitute was tasty and provided about half the tartness I enjoy.

It also provided a marvelous humorous memory. At my local grocery store I asked a lady in the produce department for "brusinka" (cranberries). She didn't understand me and looked very puzzled, but when I showed her the word on my list told me they didn't have any. I thanked her and proceeded to shop some more. A few minutes later I hear "madame, madame." It is my produce lady carrying two jars of the sauce. She'd gone to another department, found it, and brought me a choice of brands. And then the smile! She told me she thought I'd used a word for kiss! So we had a good chuckle together, I thanked her -- and blew her a kiss as she walked away. I could hear her laughing her way back to produce. What fun!

Next unavailable item -- Pepperidge Farm or Arnold's stuffing mix. Obvious substitution there also. Buy my own bread, which I did. Four different varieties. Clean, cut, then saute lots and lots of celery and onion, part of the routine even when using the "starter". Because I'm a believer in veggie bouillon as a staple, I was already confident I could add some herb-y taste, and packets of marjoram and basil (already residing in my cupboard) contributed more. Missing? Sage! Still haven't seen it. I know the Czech word, I just haven't found it on the shelves.

Because I was teaching my relatively heavy schedule through all this adventure, I will be the first to admit there are multiple more shopping options in Prague, lots of little shops with lots of specialities, and if I had both the time and the energy, I probably could have found a few more things on my list. As it turned out, it was quite all right that I didn't make any further forays into the world of retail food!

Of course we invited my flatmate, Thomas. His contribution was his grandmother's Corn Pudding, a staple in all their holiday meals. And therein lies yet another substitution. No creamed corn here! Lots of kernal corn, but none creamed. So the preparation for the corn pudding began with finding a recipe for creamed corn. Which we did, and then improvised on. I believe I have a picture of Thomas mashing two packages of cooked frozen corn with our big soup ladle (we don't have a potato masher either!) against the sides of the big cooking pot! From there it took time, not major energy. And, of course, conversion of quantities. "Looks about right to me" was a common phrase Saturday morning.

Remember we're talking about a really small oven, so another adventure was juggling stuffing, corn pudding, and turkey cooking times. (The sweet potato dish had already succumbed to boiling, not baking, along with the winter squash.)

And yes, it all came together yet another year, and this time in another place. The turkey was one of the most beautiful I've ever done, although resting quietly on its side, Stuffing was different, and really good. Cranberry sauce was interesting, and while not a real substitute, a good thing in itself. Corn pudding will, when not quite so much work, become another staple for me. What a great adventure.

And the fun was just beginning!

I arrived early, of course, and other guests began to gather. When all the gathering was done we were a group of 16 people from seven countries, some with American English (and traditional Thanksgiving dinner) as their heritage, others (the Brits and the Irishman) with just another version of it, and the rest (more than half) with English ranging from fluent to at least a smattering. And what fantastic conversation. It is hard to imagine that Theresa had some games in readiness just in case people didn't talk. With only normal conversational tone, it got quite loud in the flat. What fun! When doing post-party analysis, I realized there were actually four distinct circles present with the only tie being to either Theresa or me. And it really worked!

The real question was how to get the conversation slowed down enough to start people through the buffet line. (We didn't; we just turned into shepherds and brought them a couple at a time.) I'm not sure when we would have moved from cheese and dips and crackers to dinner if we hadn't had a guest who needed to leave early. It was 6 p.m. when we finally cut turkey and began the "real" food.

So yes, Thanksgiving in Prague is over for another year. Even the turkey soup is nearly finished. And there are new baking and serving/storage dishes residing in my kitchen. Guess I need to create another excuse to use them!

And yes, I am so thankful. That is a daily, nearly hourly attitude. How grateful I am to have my wonderful family and friends in the States, to be here, to be healthy, to be blessed with such great new friends and terrific opportunities. It truly is a wonderful life. And I hope you are enjoying it with me.


Sunday, November 23, 2008

Much Ado About - -

more ordinary events. To top the list there is the magic of the first snow. Yes, I know. It won't be long before I'll be wishing it away, or even, perhaps, homebound because of it. For now it brings happy memories, new views in this beautiful city, and the sense of yet another new beginning. Calendars can announce the seasons, nature can give signs of coming "attractions," but the first snow is, for me, always a special moment.

Friday I walked out of the laundromat into a driving sleet storm -- not at all magical, I might add. The forecast had included some chance of snow for Saturday, but that caught me totally unaware. And soaked (even with an umbrella, my constant companion!). And very chilled by the time I reached the flat. Saturday morning brought scattered flakes which stuck, creating a patchwork of red roofs and white snow outside my window, the changing scenery actually distracting as I was working.

In the late afternoon I found my boots, wrapped up in a long scarf, grabbed my gloves, and ventured out carefully for an evening with "the bunch", fun as always. And came out after dinner and conversation to an all-white world. It was
real snow. Everything was covered. And of course it invited a snowball fight! This was the good, packable stuff! You knew when you had been nailed. I learned while waiting for the tram home that Pragers do slow down when driving on snow! The cars were inching up or down the hill quite carefully. And the world was beautiful. I was in my own private snow globe, and someone had given it a good shake! A picture book ending to yet another interesting evening.

The restaurant of the evening -- U Karel IV, (Charles IV, a much admired king) is a neighborhood gathering place with really good food, nice low prices, and one convenient tram ride away for me! Gotta love that combination! Along with that, the combination of people and backgrounds and topics adds up to a great evening and a whole new set of things to ponder later every time we get together. A interesting change in the evening was the addition of a couple visitors to the conversational and national mix. One, a Venezuelan business man now living in Toronto, and another a "new" Czech friend of one of my colleagues who just may become a "regular." As usual -- a great evening. And as always, yet another chance to keep assembling the puzzle of life!

The snowballers went on to Arnaud's flat for a post-dinner gathering. He's one of the people I feel so fortunate to know and am so glad that the friendship is deepening. (And yes, it does feel good to know he enjoys being around me also, in spite of our age difference.) I was sorry to miss it, but glad to come home to a - -

Skype call from Matthew and Alexander. Because of all the i'net problems, those calls have been pretty few and far between for the past few months. Alexander is SO tall, and is it wonderful to see them together in the big chair, teasing each other, having a good time, going back and forth in our conversation. The wonders of technology! And it's free. We actually talked for nearly an hour. High point? Beyond just seeing them and being "together", that is. Reading The Velveteen Rabbit together. Matthew had found it in a sale bin, brought it home and saved it for our time together. He was right -- Granne did get chocked up at the memories! (He actually said to A. "You watch your Granne. She's going to - - -" Sometimes it's just not good to be so predictable.) And I'll be waiting my chance to go through some of the generational changes with Alexander at another time. All the 1922 references.... What a great way to keep life connections. And to remind a growing boy about the power of being loved.

Three of us had set up a much anticipated Saturday morning excursion to the Asian Art Museum with Arnaud as a guide (he was an art student in Paris for several years) which fell through at the last minute because of conflicts. I can leave it on my anticipation list, however, and know it'll be great when we're able to do it. Zbraslav is a charming little "village" that is now part of Prague. The Museum is part of a family castle taken over by some former regime, now restored to the family. My understanding is that they have just been granted the whole place back. Pity! Actually good for them, sad for the fate of the museum. And the cancellation gave me some extra work time yesterday a.m. which I promptly squandered!

Today brings another treat -- I'm quite sure this one will happen as planned. I'm having brunch with my T'giving dinner co-hostess. It's time to put the last minute plans together -- that includes how we get plates, knives/forks, and other assorted party requirements from my place to hers. The menu is long and really inviting. And I can hardly believe the time is here. It means Ocean Spray (the fresh variety, that is) better start showing up pretty soon!

I'm sure I've mentioned my terrific flatmate, Thomas. He's great. Three months now, and I'm still in the camp of the lucky few who aren't complaining about this and that and something else with their flatmate -- or just downright totally disgusted. I can't find a complaint. Isn't that terrific. I really enjoy hearing him practice his guitar -- reminiscent of times with Lotte in NYC, listening to her chamber groups rehearsing in the living room. Of course, Theresa and I wanted him at the Dinner, and happily he said yes. And he's bringing his grandmother's corn pudding, which is a staple in their T'giving meals.

If I end up baking half the turkey in my oven because neither hers nor mine will accommodate the whole one, we're going to have quite a juggling act going on here. And then a great Saturday afternoon/evening when it is all put together. I believe we have about 16 people coming -- I do so hope they all come -- and she's a person who has to plan "games." And I'm very happy to let her do it!

Last Monday was a holiday for me -- and the whole Czech Republic. It was Freedom Day, celebrating the beginning of the Velvet Revolution in 1989. Thanksgiving is NOT a Czech holiday -- hence the Saturday dinner. So I enjoyed the last one and will work through this one.

A small further note -- I have yet another new student. How blessed I am with my students, my schedule, and all the opportunities to learn. I begin with this man Tuesday. He's head of HR in the region for a global pharmaceutical. My boss says he's in his 50s, fluent in English, but wants to gain confidence in meetings with native speakers. This will be even more fun!

It is snowing again -- that's probably a good sign to wrap this up and get on with some preparation for the school week. I wish you a Happy Thanksgiving, safety on whatever journeys you and your loved ones are making, good fun, good eating, and the creation of even more good memories. And in these difficult times, I'm going to end with some words from Reinhold Niebuhr which "grabbed" me again this week.

Nothing worth doing is completed in our lifetime; therefore, we are saved by hope.
Nothing true or beautiful or good makes complete sense in any immediate contest of history; therefore we are
saved by faith.
Nothing we do, however virtuous, can be accomplished alone; therefore, we are saved by love.
No virtuous act is quite as virtuous from the standpoint of our friend or foe as from our own; therefore we are saved
by the final form of love, which is forgiveness."

Wishing you a special day devoted to counting once again our blessings and giving our thanks. I will be thinking of you. . .














Sunday, November 16, 2008

The Magic Continues

Only one thing was on my plan for the day -- to spend some time in the afternoon with a young Czech friend/colleague. Then, as is usual in "my" Prague, something totally unexpected and wonderful happened, and I received yet another gift to share with you.

I don't even remember how our friendship began. I just know that it has grown and we both look forward to times we spend together. Usually those times are wonderfully sedentary :-) We meet at the tram stop and walk to a lovely little non-smoking cukrarna (sweets shop), have a cup of tea and talk away. And I will admit these sit-down chats have been happening since I hurt my ankle, so it is pretty logical and well as fun.

Somehow the usual became the unusual. When I said I'd enjoy walking with her -- she is totally devoted to a-walk-a-day! -- Radka asked if I'd been to Petrin. Well, yes, I had. A wonderful excursion with Dasa and Thomas this summer. We rode the funicular, enjoyed the wonders of the observatory, walked through the parks, ate at the marvelous restaurant, and all in all had a spectacular day.

It seems that's not all there is to Petrin, and it wasn't the part Radka had in mind. Although I'd ridden by another section on my way home from class several times, I had never realized it was part of a much larger whole. Petrin Hill is an enormous historic, green, public place, the highest elevation of Prague's seven hills (1040+ feet) and is made up of eight parks and orchards. (If I've made you a bit curious, a search for "Petrin Hill" will give you lots more information and some beautiful pictures on the various websites.) Originally the quarry for many of Prague's historic buildings, it has been a public park since 1825.

Two notable sites on the Hill -- centuries apart in their ages -- which continuously draw my attention are the Hunger Wall and the Monument to the victims of Communism.

The first was built under Charles IV in 1360-62, called "Hunger Wall" because in addition to being a fortification, it was to provide work during a famine. It can be seen from a great distance, a dividing line running right up the hill and beyond, 8 metres high, with 1,200 metres of the original length remaining. Several bastions still remain, as does some of the inner walkway with platforms for marksmen. Undoubtedly it was a strategic act, and it protected the west and south of the city so it could grow for several hundred years. But it also provided food for the families of those working on its construction.

The second, more moving scene, is the memorial to the victims of communism, erected twelve years after the era ended for the Czech Republic. It is deceptively and hauntingly simple -- seven figures are in differing positions on a flight of oversized stairs, their bodies in various states of decay. There is a metal ribbon running up the center of the stairs which tallies the known number of victims -- giant numbers for such a small nation. And a plaque reads "The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all victims not only those who were jailed or executed but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism." Always a moving sight, and always thought provoking -- how could there be people wishing (and voting) for a return?

But on to the walk -- up and around, lovely cobblestone pathways which turn back on themselves time and again because the climb is so steep. And here and there "rest stops" with inviting wooden benches, always strategically placed to see the city below or the scenic view of the hill. On the way to the top (which I never did reach :-( wisdom overcoming pride!) we passed a marvelous waterfall with its own little pond and statuary. Its sound had been calling for many steps. And of course, here the benches faced the water. We only paused, because it was getting to be evening, and we had "miles to go before. . ." our goal. After many twists and turns we finally arrived at St. Michael's, a church which had been moved board by board from the Ukraine in the late 1920's when the valley where it stood was flooded for a hydro-electric plan.

And there it was. Such a different building, so NOT baroque, so out of the ordinary. And breathtaking in its difference. As we approached, Radka commented that something was wrong. This is a favorite walk for her, so she knows what it should look like as it comes into view. I realized that the "stuff" was actually cleaning materials, boxes which had been emptied of something.

It is a small, very dark building, and it was only as we were actually on the porch, at the entryway, that we could see people inside, inviting us to join them. The magic is alive and well! We met one couple from Rumania, in Prague only a year, and a gentleman here for 18 years, all three of whom had been cleaning, opening the heaters (which will be used sparingly and without electricity to preserve the integrity of the building), and generally working to bring the room back to shape for divine services. Someone has lovingly cleaned the icons, the limited seating is waiting for people, and the accouterments of worship are appearing.

Beginning in a couple weeks, there will be services twice monthly, including one with the Metropolitan and all the orthodox priests from miles around for what I would call a (re)consecration of the building. We had a long talk with them -- I was so grateful I could share in their joy and let them know -- thank goodness they spoke English -- I could somewhat realize how important this is to them. What a milestone for them/us all. A few weeks after the services begin, they will start to have someone present so it can be open a few hours a week for visitors. No longer "permanently closed to visitors; no services held here". And we were able to share in the moments.

As we began to descend the hill, we passed them carrying boxes and materials up, apparently to a car/van somewhere at the top. What wonderful timing -- one stop on a bench and they would have been gone. We would have missed their joy, and they would not have known our appreciation of this giant step forward in their lives and the lives of others whose worlds have changed so often and so radically. Yet another miraculous moment.

You may enter a Google search for "St Michael's Petrin Hill" and come up with some great photographs. One of the best is a 360 degrees video of St. Michael's (on a site with many of the famous spires of the city -- you could certainly spend some interesting time there, I learned earlier today!) Here is a website address. The panoramic video is wonderful. I'll leave you to imagine us in the picture together, having yet another weekend experience.

Enjoy. . . . . . .








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