Happy Easter(n)

Happy Easter to you -- or vesele Velikonece. Not long after arriving someone told several of us about the tradition of men whipping (the actual word used was "beating") women with sticks at Easter. That, of course, raised more than a bit of curiosity! My first response was "Not me they won't!"

So many questions, so few answers! First one -- in a country that certainly is not strongly religious, why would Easter Monday be a public holiday? I've come from the Bible Belt where Good Friday gets a fair amount of recognition, but Easter Monday? Another -- how to make sense of the variety of what appear to be folk customs and traditions which seemingly have no connection to Easter as I know it. Not opposed, mind you, just curious! And still the big one -- whipping? And receiving gaily decorated eggs in return?

To pass along the little I've learned. Easter here is quite a mix of traditions and customs which pre-date Christianity. And the customs are observed mostly in villages and small towns. And that is just where I've spent Easter!

At last -- a trip to Zahorany, Dasa's home village, to spend two days with her mother and brothers. It was a wonderful reunion for me, one that I wasn't sure would ever happen. And I've treasured every moment of it. With the use of my trusty Czech-English dictionary (which has spent other happy hours in their home) we had a great time. The hugs at the bus station in Litomerice were a treat in themselves (and seemed to have some mutual relief that at last we were together again, bad health and miles not interfering), and it only got better. Every meal incredible traditional Czech cooking (waaaay too much food, but every bite marvelous), smiles and nods to the stories of our shared grandson/nephew, company dropping by and staying for hours (people still do that in villages when it's obvious something a bit out of the ordinary is happening!) long restful sleep under the cozy duvet, and endless offers of more kava (coffee), caj (tea), pivo (beer), vino (I don't need to tell you that, do I?), vadu (water). And especially the time spent just enjoying being together.

AND watching the snow! All day Easter it snowed. Most of the time the temperature was just warm enough that it stuck only a few minutes. And it varied from a heavy fall of huge flakes to a general drifting of smaller ones and back again to large and heavy. All day!

Another treat was that each day Dasa and Michael called to see how things were going, offer any translation or information needed, and generally to stay in touch. Both babickas (not sure the plural, my Czech is only a tad better than when I arrived, but it is two grandmothers) in the same house. It was great, and I must admit how cared for I felt/feel. It was in one of those calls that I learned from Dasa that Monday is the BIG DAY, not Sunday. She'd said earlier that the children came around and sang, then received candy/colored eggs, and I really wanted to see that.

Now I know about Easter Monday Zahorany style. During the morning we had a slow but regular stream of visitors, mostly young men who came with their pomlazka (the braided whip which has colorful ribbons tied to the top). Both Dana and I were tapped lightly, then the "older" (it looked like 13/14 and up) males were offered their choice of drinks and children were offered eggs and candy. It was indeed a treat to see and yes, my resistance is now lowered, tho' I still wonder about the source of this beating thing! One other note -- yes, about four hours later I happened to see a neighbor male being guided back to his home fence. Instinct told me that would be the result of all that "elbow bending." Good thing there was no need for designated drivers. I'm certain none could have been found.

I'd been invited for Monday lunch by Dasa's aunt and uncle. Again, a happy reunion. And at the same time, sad. This also is a traditional Czech home, one which has been lovingly cared for and updated over many years. The disastrous floods of 2002 and 2005/6 devastated it all, the second one just after they'd finished restoration from the first. Just across the street and down a steep embankment is the Labe River, probably better know to you as the Elbe, which is its name in Germany. It's running full now -- I cannot begin to imagine what it would be like to watch it come right across the street and keep going several feet deep through your home. They have yet again cleaned and restored, which is not an easy task at any age, and surely not in your 70s!

And oh my goodness -- again, what a meal. Highlight? I not only thoroughly enjoyed eating but also got to watch the making of brambory (potato) knedlicky (dumplings). Oh me oh my! It took me right back to the days of my grandmother teaching me to make noodles. Start with flour (in this case boiled, grated potatoes) on a board, make a well for the eggs, etc., etc. While the meal was being prepared, a five-year-old neighbor girl arrived with her willow twigs and her well-rehearsed song/poem. Once launched into her first word, there was no stopping, no breath, no smile, just full steam ahead. SO cute!

Just in case I might be hungry (you're kidding, right?) there were two marvelous appetizers. Since I'm definitely not a novice at this, I knew enough to be polite (one) and disciplined (no more)! The meal starter? A marvelous light soup. Then on to roast duck, knedlicky, red or white sauerkraut, followed by Turkish coffee and mazanec, a traditional Easter cake. Again, the constant enjoyment of communicating every way possible! And loving every minute of it.

Really, this isn't a food column! It is, however, passing along my appreciation for the hospitality and my recognition of the gift of sharing bread and the "best of the house" with those you love and who love you, just because. . . . What a lovely weekend, what a special way to recognize life on Easter weekend.

The trip back to the bus station and to Prague was uneventful, made all the right choices to get to my own door, nice when you're a very uncertain transplant! Standing room only on the bus (knew this was probably the weekend for a reserved seat).

It's back to the routine, to everyday life as I know it (wonder if it was like that for the disciples?) And to you -- a wish for a year of new life, new adventures, new ways of finding and sharing love.

Oh yes -- Happy Eastern? Don't have a clue, but that is the Czech wish to friends. Certainly did take me by surprise the first time I heard it. Thought I'd misunderstood. Now I've heard it quite a few times -- I am blessed to have wonderful new friends here -- even received it as a wish in a text on my phone! So I've not heard incorrectly. It's Happy Eastern! To you and you and you.