A Long Night's Walk

Saturday in Prague. And once again a surprise email from a colleague: We're going to the celebration tonight. Meet at 5:30 at the tram stop if you want to come along.

There were a couple things about the situation I knew I could depend on. The first was that I definitely could find my way to and from this tram stop. The second was that these colleagues come up with some great ideas and are great company. Seemed to me that made it an obvious choice, especially since the day had been a bummer. (I'd "lost" a room to rent because I'm not an EU citizen -- a situation not likely to change any time soon!)

Two poor maps -- one with no street names and only driving directions -- and an article from the paper (in English, thank goodness!) got us well on our way - - - - in the wrong direction! Getting there can be part of the fun when you're with the right people. Fortunately, even though their exploration styles are totally different, these were the right people. Three long waits in a pretty brisk wind -- it is definitely still winter here -- and two crowded trams later, we were finally near our destination.

Remember the truism that a woman will ask for directions? Several interesting things happen when there are three women! One learns that there is a special music event every night at 8 at the Municipal House. This is an absolutely gorgeous Art Noveau building with the largest concert hall in Prague (as well as a stunning restaurant). It is also where Czechoslovakia was declared independent in 1918 and, coincidentally, a sight I get to admire twice a week going to and coming from a class, each time with slightly different light showing off the incredible green and gold. So -- first interesting thing learned while getting directions is where to enjoy other great evenings. Another learns that we'll reach our destination (the old fruit market) by going through the Powder Tower (built in 1475 on the site of an 11th century gate, and until 1836 beginning of the route of the Bohemian kings on their way to be crowned at the Castle). Then we need to walk a bit (no surprise there!), turn left, walk some more, and then those infamous and ominous words: "You can't miss it!" Fortunately the third woman (me) was playing eavesdropper, because she'd already heard "I'm not good with directions" from the second woman.

Particularly in the area leading to Old Town Square (this is called The Royal Mile) there is something interesting, or historic, or wonderful, or beautiful, or all of these to see every few steps. The first entry in a Google search for Old Town Square Prague states that if you go there, you'll step back in time 600 or 700 years. That's just what we had come to do! We had come to attend a celebration of an historical event 666 years ago. We were there! Staromestske Namesti -- Old Town Square.

First the fruit market. Hard to miss -- once we came to the right area. Just behind the Estates Theater. I must admit this is the first time in all my walks in this area that I'd been at the back of the Theater. And the back is nearly as beautiful as the front. It was built privately in the early 1780s by a Count and inscribed "To the Native Land and the Muses". When it was joined with the National Theatre, their motto -- The Nation Unto Itself -- was fittingly added. And yes, this is the place where Mozart himself conducted the premiere of Don Giovanni. At this point we knew all we had to do was follow our ears -- right to the stage where a group of musicians in period costumes were performing. The music was period, pleasant, and inviting. Soon, however, we just had to move on and investigate other possibilities.

Down narrow and crooked walkways, always watching for a stray cobblestone that could cause a stumble (sounds a bit like life, to me!), we gazed and gaped our way right into the middle of the Square and the Easter Festival. Booth after booth after booth selling sausages, chocolate, beer, Prague souvenirs, beautifully decorated Czech Easter eggs, a traditional sweet (long ribbons of dough wrapped around a round metal pole and roasted then sugared), nearly anything a vendor thought someone would buy. And more music. In an area totally decorated with colored eggs, festive ribbons, and fabric flowers, a stage had been erected, complete with 21st century lighting and sound system. It was graced with an ensemble of dancers providing a marvelous programme of folk dances. Who could possibly walk away from that?!

And yet, after more than a half hour, we managed to move along, back to the Estates, just in time for a medieval festival, commenorating the 666 years ago. There on the left of the stage was the court, complete with jester. In the middle, entertainment -- fire jugglers, dancers. And on the right, the troubadors. There was even a smattering of translation for those of us not yet initiated! What a show. At the end, the noble and knights mounted horses and clip-clopped their way down the cobblestones while their ladies waved farewell. All in keeping with tradition, it is duly noted!

Who could stop walking at this time? Surely not us. We continued to turn corners, stop here and there to check out good books or test the coffee, or just watch others enjoying themselves.

The night ended earlier for me than it did for the others. Moving toward home seemed more wise than moving onward. I found my way, still walking, to a tram stop much nearer home, one connection less, and at least 30 minutes faster. And yes, it was a bit embarrassing to see how easy it would have been to get there if only we'd known where we were going. (That sounds a bit like life also, doesn't it!)

One more Prague gift. What a night. Shortly after I reached my warm room, the fireworks began. This time I knew the reason. And I could join in celebrating that Prague was established, that it has come through all its twists and turns to this era, that for a little space it can be "mine", and I am blessed to enjoy it with friends.