Friday, March 7, 2008

She shall have music . . .

Prague is a city of music. From 1990 till now organ concerts are a hallmark of the city to me.

I remember a sign outside the Town Hall for visitors to the Astronomical Clock (Wikipedia will come through for you again, if you're interested) welcoming anyone who would like to come to a free organ concert upstairs. Small room, lovely tracker organ, good organist. What a way to invest an hour!

And not far away at an ornate Baroque church, big sound in a big space -- beautiful music by talented artists, donations cheerfully accepted. Many nights were spent there just enjoying the marvelous sounds.

And now - - more of the same, in yet another magnificent setting. This time the Basilica of St. Margaret at the Brevnov Monastery. Wikipedia says the Monastery is "an oasis of calm." It is that and so much more. Last Sunday it was a little bit of heaven.

For starters -- the organ was built in 1725! Can you begin to imagine how many fingers have touched those keys? Think of the peace and turmoil it has overseen. This is a place where records of those suspected of being opposed to Communism were kept in the 60s, 70s, and 80s. It's the place where Maria Therese always began her royal visit to the city, where monks and nuns had to become "secular" and provide "useful services" (teaching/nursing) when the ruling power was anti-church.

And through all these years, this has been and remains a "perfect" organ for Bach -- and Bach it gave. There were a couple of his near-contemporaries represented also, and at the end a "service" work (Prelude, Introit, Graduals, Offertory) written by an organist who died at the age of 80 just last year.

Several musical surprises: most of the numbers were "introduced" by a solo portion of the work. The voices could not have been better for the space -- clear, sailing out over the audience. Each solo seemed better than the previous one. Lovely little gems decorating the whole. BIG surprise -- there was a line with some of the numbers which indicated that the organist was also improvising. We're not talking "I didn't practice, so I'll just play anything that seems to fit." We're talking really beautiful music, well done, absolutely in keeping with the original. What a gift!
When they took their bows from the loft (and it is waaaaay up!) I learned the organist has also seen a lot of changes -- he is definitely part of an older generation.

Now put all this glorious music with its magnificent sound in a space that is so decorated and embellished that you never run out of something new to enjoy. Well, Prague continues to delight the ear.

It wouldn't be fair to my local "soloist" if s/he were not included in the wonderful music of Prague. Just outside my window is the home of a bird whose song is very new to me. Have not yet found the bird -- it's still just an anonymous song. But what a way to start a day!

What a gift for each of us -- music wherever we go.

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